Animus attracts with Brazilian touches, but scares with menu prices

There is a discreet but persistent call to discover Brazilian flavors on the Animus menu. Not in a stereotypical way. Subtle. Ingredients such as cambuci, cumaru and amburana appear on the menu. Discreet presences, but with the potential to transform the experience.

Not so pleasantly, the prices also attract attention. Wine options start at R$ 195. Main dishes, with the exception of mini rice with caramelized and crispy onions (R$ 85), start at R$ 110. As they are made to share, but just one would be little, a more economical option is to opt for smaller portions. These are also to be shared.

If money is not a problem, you can try the creations of young chef Giovanna Grossi on the six-course tasting menu (R$ 330, per person), with the possibility of ordering a pairing (R$ 280 more, also individual value).

The lounge is large, but still manages to maintain its coziness. The service is friendly and attentive. To open the meal, those who are interested in the touches of Brazilian ingredients in the recipes will like to see the signature cocktails, which continue in the same vein as the main menu.

Among the classics, the negroni cearensis (R$44) is a good surprise, with gin infused with amburana. The combination with campari and vermouth is also graced with cocoa aromas, thanks to a chocolate coin placed on top of the carved ice. The characteristic bitterness gains a light sweetness, with a round and especially aromatic result in the mouth.

But let’s get to the food. We started with the pork knuckle dumpling and cambuci syrup (R$ 24, two pieces). The native fruit of the Atlantic forest concentrated in this kind of dense and sour syrup adds acidity and freshness to the frying.

The portion of grilled green beans (R$56) is the most famous in the house. With cashew nuts, black olives and ararita (an aged cheese with a delicate flavor reminiscent of pecorino Romano), it is indeed a tasty recipe. But some pods looked raw. And the price didn’t seem in line with what the dish delivered.

The pink shrimp gyoza (R$68, three pieces) came next. Too bad the beurre blanc bisque sauce was too salty. Without being passed through it, the cupcake did not shine. The flavor of the filling didn’t come through, and the portion left something to be desired.

Those who prefer to continue tasting starters with national touches can opt for the burrata with smoked tomatoes (R$82), prepared with mint and puxuri (an Amazonian seed). Or for the grilled cauliflower, boursin with cerrado vanilla and vermouth caramel (R$58).

The main dish chosen was pappardelle ripiene (R$ 120). In this version, a single wide strip of dough wraps duck and mushroom ragù. When you cut it in half, it disassembles and spreads the filling over a tasty reduction.

For dessert, the bacuri cream brûlée with cumaru (R$45) is velvety and finishes the meal well with sweetness and acidity. If tasted next to the cream, the coffee crunch that comes on top ends up taking over the tongue. And as the sugar cone is already there to contrast textures, it ends up being unnecessary.

Creativity was evident throughout every meal. But the proposal, less formal than a tasting menu, still clashes with the bill — a dinner priced at R$698 for two.