How surfing helped me recover from burnout – Surf Origin

Is it nostalgia that speaks?

by Janaina Pedroso

How are you? How is your life? Surfing?

I’m gone! It was 40 days without a word. I almost don’t come back, but Julia Santos made me come back. In fact, it was her appearance on the OFF reality show that inspired me to return.

I confess that the outcome of the dispute is of little interest to me and I will probably lack time to watch the attraction. However, Santos is so brave that everything that bears her name seems to make us “get up”.

I just stopped. As my aunt said, I took some creative time. Enjoy idleness? Lie, I keep writing and surfing.

In fact, surfing progressed nice these days. Finally “put my foot on the board”. Maybe you can’t quite understand this expression, and experienced surfers don’t agree with it either, but it happens around here.

Sometimes, depending on the new board, it takes a while to “fit the surf”. Here’s another expression… In this “half time”, I also wrote almost an entire website, for a project that has everything to be amazing! Then the break it was just around here. But do you believe the blog is still alive? Yes, to my surprise. Origin Surf has a life of its own, even without any updates it was able to generate 398K views last month. Only this little thing here religiously keeps great clicks today!

Anyway, the truth is that life is busy and this year was tough, let’s be honest? If it was a hell of a year for you, forgive me, ok?

By the way, there’s nothing more toxic than the “full time good vibes” spirit. While the shadow is not welcomed, this shit that we are fed up with seeing. Even my Instagram went to hell. Every day is a disgrace. I’m between coping with anxiety attacks, being alienated or exiting the app.

Speaking of shadows, lately, I strongly envy idle people. Oh, and the ones that can sleep too. How life changes. There was a time when I took to the analysis, a less than noble feeling in relation to heirs-travelers-of-good-taste who just enjoy life and don’t know what bills are.

But apart from what’s bad, it’s fine.

My surfing has evolved over the past few weeks, despite water getting into my ear. I hit my foot on the new board, even with mild pain in my right knee.

I’m loving my body, but I know if I want to keep surfing for the next twenty years I’m going to have to face the tedious weight training.

The sexiest season of the year is coming, and despite the melasma there will be summer and days of activating the melanin with hours of sun, liking in the sand, just enjoying the tan (along with infinite facial sunscreens)!

Furthermore, a GoPro has saved my life, because it was enjoying the present moment, days at the beach with my son in nature and surfing that I overcame the physical and mental exhaustion, caused by a known process called burnout; in fact, motherhood is almost an eternal burnout… cheers for mothers, for life on the beach and for the “Goprós” (and that’s not jabá, okay, it’s really gratitude).