If there’s one thing that every journalist remembers well, it’s the first story in which he saw his name published, in a newspaper, magazine or in the credits of some electronic media. Come on, today anyone can have their space on social media, talk about everything or nothing – but believe me, influencers, knowing that what you say or write is being taken to thousands of people, not for a paid boost to stroke logarithms, but for a vehicle that bets on his professional capacity and even pays him for it, he has a taste of victory. It’s like this, almost like reaching the end of that difficult trail and letting out a delicious and breathy “Whew!”, before taking a deep breath and taking the way back.
But, after all, why am I talking here about reminiscences that apparently have so little to do with the topic of this blog? The theme today is the Caminhos do Mar Park, the official name since last year of an area of 274 hectares that includes the Estrada Velha de Santos. That same road on whose curves Roberto Carlos tried to forget a love that had disappeared through the rearview mirror of his car back in 1969. The road whose abandonment was the subject of the first report that this blogger wrote in her life, on April 28, 1978. Yes, we are talking about story.
And it is history that is breathed along the 8 kilometers of the trail released by Estrada Velha, granted since June 2021 to the Parquetur company for the next 30 years. The company is responsible for restoring the nine monuments built in 1922 to celebrate the centenary of the Independence of Brazil, and for managing the visitation of what was the first road built in concrete in Latin America, in 1920.
For those who want to enjoy a nature trail without getting smeared with mud, Estrada Velha de Santos is a good option. First, because it is a route that can be covered almost entirely on a regular pavement. Second, because the visitor less accustomed to long journeys can hire a return trip to the starting point (which can be access via São Bernardo do Campo, in Alto da Serra, or via Cubatão, on Cruzeiro Quinhentista) by van, thus saving legs halfway through.
The exception to modernity are the stretches of Calçada do Lorena, the oldest landmark in the complex, and an unmissable part of the route for trail lovers. It’s the only part that presents a little trouble to the walker – but nothing that closed sneakers won’t solve and a good repellent won’t recommend. After all, we are talking about what is considered the largest biological corridor in the Atlantic Forest, surrounded by more than 1,200 types of plants and 1,361 identified species of animals. A good part of this bugs, attention, is formed by insects.
It was along Calçada do Lorena, a dirt road and slippery stones opened in 1792 by the then governor of São Paulo Bernardo José de Lorena (1788-1797), that Dom Pedro I bumped his way to the Plateau before proclaiming Brazil’s Independence in 1822. Later, in 1841, the current route of the road was opened, then called Estrada da Maioridade, in honor of, of course, the majority of Dom Pedro II. It would connect the port of Santos to the city of São Paulo until 1947, when Via Anchieta was inaugurated, and functioned as a secondary road until 1985, when it was closed to vehicle traffic. Since then, it has even served as a construction site and emergency access for the construction of the second lane of the Imigrantes Highway.
Back to its status as a historic route, among the monuments that deserve a stop for the visitor, the majority still undergoing the restoration process provided for in the concession notice, are, in addition to the Padrão do Lorena, the Pouso de Paranapiacaba (from the Tupi “place from where you can see the sea”), the Belvedere Circular, where Estrada Velha and Calçada do Lorena cross, and Rancho da Maioridade. For the future, the concessionaire plans to install restrooms and restaurants there – but, for now, water and restrooms, only at the two access points to the park, at both ends of the route, which have snack bars. Ideally, bring your own water. A cap also goes well, remembering that, historic or not, that is still a road: there is little shadow and the light, reflected on the pavement, does not spare the walker for most of the journey.
The Curva do Uau viewpoint also stands out. From there, on a clear day, you can see the cities of Santos, São Vicente, Cubatão and Praia Grande. The “Wow!” it’s really inevitable.
Oh, yes, I forgot to mention the title of the report I was talking about at the beginning. And it was “The Old Road monuments falling apart”. Forty-four years later, they are still waiting for a happy ending, now promised by Parquetur until April 2023. The history of Brazil thanks you.
Service
Opening hours: from Wednesday to Sunday, and on holidays, from 8 am to 5 pm
Tickets: R$ 40 (Wednesdays and Thursdays) and R$ 50 (Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays) can be purchased at the access point or through the website https://caminhosdomar.com.br. Students and teachers pay half price. Group and school visits can be scheduled with the park administration, by WhatasApp 11-97279-5616
Accesses:
Entrance ordinance through São Bernardo do Campo: SP-148 Estrada Caminho do Mar, Km 42 – Alto da Serra – São Bernardo do Campo/ SP
Entrance ordinance through Cubatão: SP-148 Estrada Caminho do Mar, Km 50 – Cruzeiro Quinhentista – Cubatão/SP
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