Coats that become pillows and scarves that can be worn as hats appeared in Issey Miyake’s latest collection created in collaboration with French designer Ronan Bouroullec.

Presented as part of the men’s collection show HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Fall-Winter 2024, the collection reinterprets the designer’s ever-growing corpus of abstract paintings into a collection of apparel and accessories.

In the past, Ronan collaborated with his brother, Erwan, and their works are in the permanent collections of the Center Pompidou, Art Institute of Chicago, Design Museum London and MoMa.

In an extensive interview with Designboom, the French designer spoke about how this collaboration came about, while he has always been reluctant to collaborate with fashion houses.

“I have a long relationship with Issey Miyake. When I was 16, there was a big exhibition of his work in Paris. It was my second time traveling to Paris and I wanted to see exactly this exhibition. Even when I was young, Issey Miyake was always an important person in my life. My first contact with the house was about 25 years ago, when his team called me and asked if I was interested in designing a boutique for them in Paris. I immediately refused, because I am not an interior designer. But after thinking for a few days, I thought that Miyake has always been very important to me. So together with my brother we designed the boutique A-POC (A Piece of Cloth) in Paris” narrated.

“A year and a half ago, I received a call from the team and they asked me if I would be interested in using my drawings for a new collection. I immediately said “no”. In the last 10 years I have had many requests from different fashion houses wanting to use my paintings, and I don’t really like the idea. However, after 10 minutes, I reconsidered the question simply because I knew that the team at Issey Miyake respects. They are creative people who listen and I know that the spirit of the company has remained the same over the years. The team consists of noble, ordinary people. So I thought it might be a good idea to work with them.” he continued.

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What was different about HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE and what would it take for him to accept such an invitation from a fashion house in the future? “I think it was about the spirit. The spirit of research is so connected to Issey Miyake himself and now it is connected to the company. Issey Miyake has always had a close relationship with design and architecture. He had a passionate approach and delivered sharp design in a very special way. In addition, the group includes modest people, who are not the usual type of people in the fashion world. Of course, there are probably other fashion companies with kind people who have a passion for research. But in my life I have worked in so many different fields and I feel that in every field there is the best company to work with. I find myself very connected to (the house of) Issey Miyake. If I have to work on a fashion project in the future, I hope, if possible, to do it again with the team at Issey Miyake” concluded.

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The collection was presented at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, in an art gallery-like catwalk where Bouroullec’s paintings were placed on the wall next to flattened versions of the garments to further blur the line between art and fashion.

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