Those who often scroll the internet know that its protagonists Wicked, Ariana Grande and Cynthia Erivo, don’t stop crying during their tour to promote the film. But long before they shared their stories and tears with the world, one particular stylistic moment moved Grande during filming, according to the film’s costume designer Paul Tazewell, the first time she wore the iconic bubble dress.

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“Ariana was thrilled because it was the first time she was able to see herself as the iconic Glinda,” Tazewell tells Bustle. “I was definitely emotionally charged… If they see themselves as the character, then I’ve done my job.” The bubble dress, along with other recognizable costumes from the film, carries multiple stories.

Although Jon M. Chu’s ambitious venture is a direct adaptation of the Broadway musical of the same name, the original musical was loosely based on Gregory Maguire’s 1995 novel. The book is a response to the 1900 novel, The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, and 1939 film.

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The bubble dress and its story

For the film Wicked, Tazewell paid homage to the dress and evolved it. “The Pink Bubble Dress references both the 1930s film and contemporary aesthetics, how we view fashion, sculpture and wearable art,” says Tazewell of the gorgeous creation, which featured 20,000 beads and it took over 225 hours to hand-embroider. (And that’s just one of more than 1,000 costumes included in the two films).

Ever since photos of the bubble dress surfaced in April 2023, fans have been on a hunt for meaning, deciphering every frill and iridescent detail.

The choice of pink

On TikTok, many are wondering why the dress is pink, like in the Wizard of Oz, instead of blue, like in the musical.

“In creating our own original world for Oz, we relied more on Gregory Maguire’s book, which is a reaction to the ’39 film, than on the Broadway musical,” explains Tazewell. “However, Glinda’s color palette is inspired by her bubble and iridescent glow.”

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The crystal silver slippers

In the film, instead of the classic ruby ​​pumps, crystal silver slippers appear. “I wanted to create a new image for this special shoe,” says Tazewell. “It’s not a ruby ​​shoe, because in the original book it was silver, so we kept it in our story.”

The heel of the shoe looks like a whirlwind that swirls with glitter and then hugs the rest of the foot. “I hope people notice,” he adds.

Iconic costumes from the movie

In addition to the bubble dress and silver slippers, Tazewell thinks Elphaba’s hat will become iconic. “It has a fresh approach, inspired by the texture and power that Cynthia exudes as Elphaba.”

Cynthia Erivo wears the hat in a way that highlights her power. “At first it’s small and foldable, but as her character develops, it grows. It is an indicator of its growing power.”

Prince Fiyero by Jonathan Bailey

For Fiyero, Tazewell wanted to create an “iconic heroic prince”. His suit includes blue velvet with gold embroidery, creating a sense of royal blood and military superiority.

“All the characters had to feel real so that the audience could fall in love with each of them,” concludes Tazewell. “I didn’t want them to be caricatures, but real people.”