Understand what retinol is, used to prevent wrinkles and expression marks

Retinol has long been touted as one of the most effective treatments for increasing skin collagen and thus reducing fine lines and wrinkles, combating acne and attenuating blemishes, homogenizing pigmentation.

According to Murad Alam, a dermatologist in Chicago and president of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery in the United States, it is “the best-studied topical medication with the most evidence of effectiveness in reducing visible signs of aging caused by sun exposure.”

While the benefits of retinol may not be new, the rise in products associated with it is. Yet despite their popularity—or perhaps thanks to it—products with retinol are messy and can be difficult to use.

Robin Shobin, founder and editor of Charlotte’s Book, an online beauty portal, said she receives more questions about retinol than about any other ingredient used in skin care.

“I think this is a result of having a lot of information and misinformation out there. And a lot of different types of products,” Shobin said.

Below you will find answers to some of the most common questions about retinol.

​What is the difference between the retinol contained in my preferred skin care brand formulation and the one prescribed in the prescription? On the packaging it says it works the same way. Both are derived from vitamin A, but prescription formulas are more potent. These include tretinoin (sold as Retin-A, Atralin, and Renova), tazarotene (Tazorac), and adapalene (Differin), approved over-the-counter for sale by the FDA in 2016. medicines).

They work by binding to retinoic acid receptors located in the DNA of skin cells, stimulating faster renewal and preventing the production of collagenase, an enzyme that causes the destruction of collagen in the skin.

“The retinol from over-the-counter products can give you the same result as the prescription ones; it’s just going to take longer,” said Marnie Nussbaum, a dermatologist in Manhattan and an assistant professor at Cornell Presbyterian Hospital in New York.

The last time I applied retinol, my skin was very irritated. How can I prevent this from happening again? First-time users often feel dry, irritated and peeling, a reaction called retinization. “It’s normal for the skin to be slightly red and exfoliated,” Nussbaum said.

Gerald Imber, plastic surgeon and founder of the Youth Corridor Clinic, advises starting with a small portion of the retinol-containing product. “People seem to think that if a little is good, a lot is better. Excessive irritation is not a sign of better results,” warned Imber.

Likewise, Shani Darden, a beautician in Los Angeles, recommends that her clients start using retinol once a week and then increase it by one day each week. “Use as often as your skin will tolerate,” added Darden, who also recommends using a moisturizer before retinol if it’s drying your skin too much.

Susan Cox, a dermatologist in Newport Beach, Calif., advises patients to cut down on other routine compositions that can cause irritation, such as glycolic acid and vitamin C.

I’m 20 years old. Am I too young to start using retinol? Twenty years is not too new, argues Nussbaum, noting that retinol can “prevent damage caused by the sun, increase cell renewal and reduce the appearance of acnes. It is good to use retinol at night to protect the skin from external aggressors, such as the environment and pollutants, to which we are exposed since we were young”, he justified.

Higher Education Skincare, a new line of beauty products that has Cox as a consultant dermatologist and millennial and Gen Z consumers as its focus, markets the MBA, a night serum with 0.5% retinol.

However, women in this age group need to know that retinol is not recommended for anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding.

Robert Anolik, a Manhattan dermatologist and assistant professor of clinical medicine at the New York University School of Medicine, said there was evidence of risks to the baby, who could be born with defects, and to the fetus, who could die when the baby is born. retinol (as found in the acne medication Accutane) is given in its intravenous or oral form.

Why can’t I use retinol during the day or in the sun? The main reason, highlights Anolik, is the fact that the sun’s ultraviolet rays cancel out the effect of retinol. “So many people fear a toxic reaction to the sun, but in fact there is no evidence of photoallergies or phototoxicities related to retinol”, he argued, adding that the skin can be slightly more sensitive to the sun due to the exfoliating effect of retinol on the skin; therefore, using a good sunscreen is essential.

I just like to use natural products. There are alternatives to retinol that offer the same efficiency?Possibly. Bakuchiol, an antioxidant found in the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, has shown promise.

According to a study published in February in the British Journal of Dermatology, when applied twice a day, a cream containing 0.5% bakuchiol was as effective at reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation as a daily overnight application of a drugstore product. containing 0.5% retinol, in addition to scaling and drying the skin less.

Like retinol, bakuchiol can carry risks if used during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Macrene Alexiades, a Manhattan dermatologist and associate professor of clinical medicine at the Yale School of Medicine, explained that because backuchiol is an antiandrogen, or testosterone blocker, it can interfere with the formation of male genitalia in utero.

“I wouldn’t recommend it. Probably the amount used is quite small, but you don’t want to be in the role of asserting the safety of a substance and having people put it directly in contact with the fetus,” Alexiades mused.