Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid and Retinol: How Effective Are They Against Skin Aging, According to Science?

For those who want to stop the action of time, it was not always as easy as it is today.

Throughout history, people have used all sorts of crazy techniques to care for their skin and fight aging, like bathing in donkey’s milk like Cleopatra supposedly did, or applying mercury directly to the skin like the Elizabethans did.

While the modern age has brought its fair share of bizarre methods of combating skin aging such as the placenta or ‘vampire lift’, the latest trend in the field is using science.

But with solutions packed with peptides, antioxidants and acids, it can be difficult for someone with no background in biology or chemistry to know if what they’re buying is scientifically sound or just hype.

Below are three of the most popular ingredients found in many anti-aging products today.

Is there any evidence that they keep what they promise? Check out.

Vitamin C

Products containing vitamin C often claim to “brighten up” the skin’s appearance and stimulate collagen production.

The middle layer of our skin (the dermis) produces collagen and elastin, which work together to give the skin firmness and elasticity.

But as we age, the skin produces less collagen and elastin, which is why we develop wrinkles.

Vitamin C is a little difficult to penetrate the skin.

This is because the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis, acts as a barrier against water.

As the compound is water-soluble, this can make it difficult to develop a product that can deliver vitamin C to the skin.

But some research suggests that concentrations greater than 5% of vitamin C may work.

For example, one study found that in ten women aged between 50 and 60, applying a cream containing 5% vitamin C to the forearms daily for six months showed an increase in collagen production in the skin.

Other research also indicates that daily application of vitamin C to the skin can markedly reduce hyperpigmentation (slightly darker patches of skin) caused by sun damage.

In several studies, creams with and without vitamin C were applied to different areas of each person’s skin.

It was found that people who used vitamin C creams for a total of 47 days saw a noticeable difference in skin color after 12 days of use.

However, there was little change after the first 12 days.

But it is not known whether the results persisted after the study ended.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance that our body produces.

It is usually found in the fluids of the eyes and between the joints and tissues.

Many skin care products now include hyaluronic acid, claiming that it is a good moisturizer that can help reduce wrinkles.

A 2011 study that looked at 76 women between the ages of 30 and 60 found that using creams containing 0.1% hyaluronic acid twice daily for two months improved skin hydration and elasticity.

But improvements in the appearance of wrinkles and skin roughness were only seen in creams where the hyaluronic acid molecules were smaller.

This is because hyaluronic acid molecules that are larger can be harder for the skin to absorb.

But many skin creams that contain hyaluronic acid don’t tell you the exact size of the molecules used in the product, making purchasing decisions difficult.

Therefore, it is worth reading the label and noting the type and/or concentration of hyaluronic acid it contains.

Other studies have shown that many hyaluronic acid products (from creams and serums to injectables) can help increase skin hydration and reduce wrinkles.

This includes a 2021 experiment, which showed a significant increase in skin hydration and reduction of fine lines (more superficial wrinkles) in participants.

But it is worth noting that this study used a commercial product containing a mixture of niacinamide, ceramides and hyaluronic acid applied twice daily, along with daily use of sunscreen.

This makes it difficult to say whether the results were due to hyaluronic acid alone.

retinol

You Retinol-based products are popular today, often touted for their ability to reduce the effects of long-term sun damage to the skin (photoaging), including hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A.

It converts to retinoic acid when it is absorbed through the skin.

Once absorbed, it helps increase collagen production and stimulates cell renewal.

All these effects combined help fill in wrinkles and decrease hyperpigmentation.

Studies on human cells, skin samples and humans suggest that products containing retinol may affect the appearance of the skin.

For example, a human study showed that using a product with at least 0.4% retinol three times a week for six months decreased the appearance of wrinkles.

Previous studies have shown that even products containing 0.04% retinol can have this effect when used for at least 12 weeks.

While the effects are not as pronounced compared to other retinoid products, creams containing at least 0.04% retinol should be able to reduce the appearance of fine wrinkles if used continuously over a period of months, especially when combined with sunscreen.

What to do

If you’re considering buying an anti-aging skin care product, you need to keep a few things in mind.

First, find out if you are allergic to any of the ingredients in the product and if it is suitable for your skin type.

For example, if you have dry and sensitive skin, retinol may not be suitable as it can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight and irritate it even more.

You should also observe the concentration of the active ingredient in the product and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use.

This is indicated on the label.

Of course, you should also remember that the purchased product is not a panacea.

It is equally important to maintain a healthy lifestyle, eat a balanced diet and get enough rest to keep your skin visibly healthy.