Opinion

To feel in the Northeast – Marcelo Katsuki

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Today I want to talk about a place I visited in Barra Funda this weekend, where I ate two of my favorite regional dishes: acarajé and tidy. A new bar, run by a cook from the state of Rio Grande do Sul, Junior Delfino, his wife Antônia and his brother Macedo, responsible for the drinks.

The place is called Oxente Bar e Petiscos and is located at the beginning of R. Barra Funda, almost on the corner of Av. Pacaembu. It’s not even two months old but the food is already clinking. He could, Junior worked for more than 10 years in Rota do Acarajé, so he deftly executes all the dishes on the menu.

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I started right away with a portion of miniacarajés (R$ 30 – 6 units), accompanied by vatapá, caruru, dried shrimp and green tomato salad. The acarajé has light dough and the sides are delicious and hearty, no “miserê” here.

Macedo’s caipirinhas are well executed and with great combinations, such as cashews with lemon and mint, tangerine with ginger, kiwi with orange and my favorite: lemon with passion fruit. They cost R$15 (cachaça), R$20 (vodka) and R$25 (sake).

The tidy (R$ 40) is a party! It can be prepared with dried meat onions (photo), dried meat or pepperoni. Think of a tasty and tender dried meat, washed down with a little bottled butter and that melts in your mouth. Even the farofinha, which usually doesn’t have much flavor, is special.

There are two desserts: fried banana with honey and ice cream or creamy coconut candy with ice cream, both at R$25. I went to the special of the day: a chef’s version of the top hat, Pernambuco dessert made with banana, sugar, cinnamon, and here , with rennet cheese and soursop jelly.

Look at Junior in his compact kitchen – and where so many goodies come from. On my next visit I’m going to invest in Escondidinho, I already know it’s one of the best. And eat crab in the chef’s sauce. Where else in São Paulo can you eat a good crab? Rare thing.

I ended up spending the entire afternoon and didn’t even notice. Above, the facade of the bar, a simple corner with a family atmosphere, and perhaps that’s why I felt so at ease. And despite the cold and rainy afternoon, I was transported to a kiosk on a hidden beach on the northeast coast, yet to be discovered. Like Oxente.

Oxente Bar e Petiscos – map Thurs
R. Barra Funda, 1,086 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP
Telephone: (11) 3667-1510

(Photos: Marcelo Katsuki/Folhapress)

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