Shoshana Delishop, the last Jewish restaurant in Bom Retiro, reopens with a bar atmosphere

“I bought the restaurant because I didn’t know what to say on the phone. It was an act of sheer cowardice.” This is how sociologist Benjamin Seroussi, artistic director of Casa do Povo, explains his recent and unexpected entry into the gastronomy business.

Seroussi and his friends Ines Lafer and Arthur Hirsch are the names at the forefront of the rescue operation of Adi Shoshi, the last classic Jewish restaurant in Bom Retiro, in the central region of São Paulo.

Also called Shoshi, Shoshana or just Delishop, the space was about to close its doors and was saved by the gong – opened in 1991 by the couple Adi and Shoshana Baruch, the house will officially reopen as Shoshana Delishop on August 18th, still in soft opening scheme. The real reopening is only on the 25th.

The new owners, who joined 22 other investors in a crowdfunding, promise a well-dosed mix of renovation and tradition. The cold starters, kept as a highlight of the menu, will be displayed at the founder’s former counter, which has been entirely renovated. “The restoration cost more than a new counter and gave a lot of headache”, confesses Seroussi.

The original recipes were shared with chef and researcher Clarice Reichstul, from Paca Polaca, who now signs the menu. Fred Caffarena, who was first hired for the project, dropped out of the project last year.

Reichstul imprinted her personal touches cautiously, she says. Shoshana’s famous milk pudding was kept, as was the tongue with varenikes, potato-filled pastries. The menu continues without pork dishes, in respect of Jewish tradition, but it has made room for other influences.

“I wanted to show the Jewish food of the diaspora, which includes recipes from Eastern Europe and the Middle East”, he explains.

In the renovated hall, with new tables and a collection of photos by Cristiano Mascaro depicting Rua José Paulino, another classic in Bom Retiro, the atmosphere will be more relaxed. The idea is to borrow the informality of São Paulo bars to create an authentic Jewish pub.

Not by chance, the day-to-day kitchen will be in the hands of Graziela Tavares, a partner at Bar Sabiá, in Vila Madalena. Günter Sarfert signs the drinks menu. “We’ll have lots of starters to drink with 600 ml beer, as well as dishes to share,” says Reichstul.

Herring seasoned with onions and allspice, pumpkin paste with harissa pepper served on pita bread and chicken or eggplant schnitzel feature on the appetizer list. In the soup section are the caramelized beet borscht with sour cream and the kneidalach, matzah balls in chicken or mushroom broth.

Offering a good number of vegan recipes was another concern of the new administration. Sign of the times. “We’re going to serve young Jewish food. I’m attached to my history, but I’m in Brazil in 2022. The last Jewish restaurant in Bom Retiro couldn’t die, but it doesn’t have to stand still in time. I won’t deconstruct recipes, but adopt a more contemporary look. “, continues the chef.

In the first month, the restaurant will work on reduced hours, with lunch from Tuesday to Saturday, from 11:30 am, and brunch on Sundays, from 10 am to 4 pm – as the restaurant is surrounded by cultural attractions, the partners bet that the coffee mix morning and lunch can attract people from other neighborhoods.

Happy hour, for now, only on Fridays, when the Shabbat Boteco takes place. As it is a special night in the Jewish week, the restaurant will be decorated with white embroidered tablecloths and traditional dishes such as fried gefilte fish and tongue canapé will be on the scene – customers will receive matzah for prayer and a glass of wine. The objective, however, is to gradually expand the nighttime hours, with no date set yet.

The current partners explain that Shoshana and her son, Nir, who was in charge of the kitchen, just didn’t join the new project because they didn’t want to – her husband, Adi, died last year. But a kind of informal supervision is guaranteed by contract. “Shoshana lives upstairs, she couldn’t stay away. She approved of all the dishes and actively participated in everything”, warns Seroussi.

Even so, the debuting restaurateur says he is prepared for criticism and is sure that the most nostalgic will be surprised by the news. “Where there are two Jews, there are three opinions. I will institute a book of complaints and deal with them with Jewish humor. I hope people will come, complain and come back.”