Opinion

Bars in SP bet on gizzards, liver and tongue and give kids a new look

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Heart, tongue, gizzard, liver. It is not necessary to continue the list for many people to turn up their noses just hearing the name of these innards — eating, then, is out of the question in many cases. But kids are gaining a new face in São Paulo and are starring in dishes in bars and restaurants.

This is the case with AE! Kitchen, in Vila Mariana, for example, which includes these meats in some recipes. Or the bar Boca de Ouro, in Pinheiro, where the ox gizzard is one of the stars of the house.

“Some less conventional meats are extremely tasty, when used with the correct seasoning and preparation”, says chef Alexandre Vorpagel, from Bottega 21, another one who bets on these meats. “It can surprise any palate.”

But the most famous is the Moela, which took this digestive part of the animals to its name and today has two units: one in Pinheiros and another in Santa Cecília. On the menu, you can find beef cheek and tongue, in addition, of course, to the gizzard that names the address.

Here are five restaurants that serve kids dishes in São Paulo.

Hey! Kitchen

In a house in Vila Mariana, chefs Walkyria Fagundes and Ygor Lopes work with a short menu, which varies according to the products available each week. On the menu, kids appear in dishes such as foie gras nougat, made with chicken livers with almonds and apricots and accompanied by buttered brioche (R$39). There is also the ballotine with free-range chicken, stuffed with duck meat, chicken liver and peanuts (R$120).
R. Áurea, 285, Vila Mariana, south region, tel. (11) 3476-8521, Instagram @aecozinha


Golden Mouth

The bar is renowned for its simple bar and good drinks — and for chatting with the owners, Renato Martins and Arnaldo Hirai. If the idea is to line your stomach between one cocktail and another, one option is gizzards in sauce, served with cornmeal (R$ 25). Soft, it also goes well with breaded and fried cucumber pickles (R$15).
R. Cônego Eugênio Leite, 1121, Pinheiros, west region, tel. (11) 43713933, Instagram @barbocadeouro


Bottega 21

In addition to the drinks made by Michel Felício, the space’s menu features dishes with offal – this is the case of Lingua Brasata, a beef tongue sliced ​​and prepared in butter, served with tomato, pistachio and onion (R$ 39). Cuore di Pollo Saltato is a heart of chicken with garlic and Sicilian lemon (R$32).
R. dos Pinheiros, 1308, Pinheiros, west region, tel. (11) 99342-2332, Instagram @bottega21bar


Gizzard

With the guts already in the name, Moela has two units in São Paulo and is a full plate for those who want to venture into the world of offal and other meats often dispensed in the kitchen. This is the case of the beef cheek in wine sauce, topped with slices of cambuci pepper, eggplant and onion (R$32). Lanche do Zé has beef tongue, plated onions, cambuci pepper and mustard (R$ 28).
R. Cardeal Arcoverde, 2320, Pinheiros, west region; a. Canuto do Val 136, Santa Cecília, central region, Instagram @barmoela


Tantin

Also recently opened on Rua dos Pinheiros, Tantin mixes Brazilian recipes and bar snacks. On the kids’ menu, the beef tongue cooked with black beer (R$ 32) stands out. Other options are the cooked gizzard with onion and tomato (R$32) and the chicken heart with olive oil and garlic (R$38), all accompanied by bread and vinaigrette.
R. dos Pinheiros, 987, west region, tel. (11) 96333-5414, Instagram @tantinbar

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