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Monday, March 20, 2023
HomeOpinionItaim Bibi consolidates itself as the new frontier of São Paulo gastronomy

Itaim Bibi consolidates itself as the new frontier of São Paulo gastronomy

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In 2022, no neighborhood in São Paulo saw as many houses of trendy chefs rise as Itaim Bibi. It started with a hipster trattoria; won a playful-Hispanic ice cream shop, Yankee pizzeria, more Italians and new Japanese.

The explosion in the region, which also served as an airstrip for brands from Rio de Janeiro and Lima in recent months, should not stop there. Houses like Mila, Mooi Mooi, Paul’s Boutique, Atto, Dhomus, Koon, Yū, Boucherie, Boteco Rainha and Osso await noisy new neighbors.

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Starting with Bone. Opened a month ago, the award-winning house of matured meats imported from Peru has already received almost 5,000 people. Still in the wake of the opening, chef Renzo Garibaldi opens a bar in the coming days. The venue is expected to open on the 15th.

On the top floor of the restaurant, Drunks will have an independent life and will serve as a nightcap for those who have had dinner and still don’t want to go home, in addition to offering top-notch cocktails and snacks based on dry aged meat until 3 am every night, many with jazz from 11pm.

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In the same mood, three months ago Claude and Thomás Troisgros brought Boucherie, a grill house with all-you-can-eat side dishes, from Rio de Janeiro, launched the Bar du Quartier and are working on a Mediterranean restaurant — all in the same complex, Le Quartier. , which has been home to Chez Claude since 2020.

Another migrant chef from Rio, Pedro Artagão measures the success of his Boteco Rainha, which opened at the end of May at Itaim Bibi, in draft beer: around 1,000 glasses a day since opening. With that, he speeds up the work of Galeto Rainha.

“We studied several neighborhoods, but we prefer Itaim because it resembles Leblon: it’s bucolic, it has a residence and it’s a financial center”, explains Artagão. “We landed Boteco, which was the brand most frequented by São Paulo and, soon, we will open Galeto.”. In other words, before the end of this year, golden galetinhos, empadinhas and house wine will be present on Rua Pais de Araújo.

According to a survey by Secovi-SP, the housing union, Itaim Bibi was the district of the capital of São Paulo with the most residential launches last year, in addition to boasting one of the most expensive square meters in the city. As a result, the region established itself as a backyard, including a gastronomic one, for the people who work at Faria Lima — and wealthy palates attracted cooks and gastronomy entrepreneurs.

“We were looking for an interesting place for lunch, because the model already works very well at Mooca. We want to bring the pleasant feeling of being at home, of remembering grandma’s kitchen, even when we are away”, says chef Fellipe Zanuto, who plans to open the Hospedaria’s second address, on Clodomiro Amazonas street, later this year.

Also absorbed in cement, grout and permits, chef Oscar Bosch can barely refresh his head with the artisanal ice creams he has been preparing with his fiancee, Mel Kolanian, since February at Mooi Mooi Amazing Ice Creams, on Manuel Guedes street.

Two blocks down, at 147, Rua Pais de Araújo, the Catalan is about to take the shovel to build another Spanish restaurant. “It won’t be Tanit or Nit, but there will also be rice, coals and a differentiated service at the table. If all goes well, a rooftop too.”

Tássia Magalhães, the award-winning chef at Nelita, in Baixo Pinheiros, is also about to open the Mag Market confectionery, which has been under construction for a semester in Itaim. “It could be in one or three months, I’m calm,” she says. There, in addition to its chocolate cake, long-fermented breads, puff pastries and pies in a rigorous – and buttery – French style, you can enjoy a cup of coffee throughout the day.

At the head of a small empire nearby, Rodolfo de Santis opened the Nino Cucina phenomenon in 2015 in the region. Since then, the Italians have boosted the neighborhood, with seven other houses and a dark kitchen. Of these, he opened this year Aquiles Taberna and Vito Mozza Bar.

To take advantage of the current movement in the region, this weekend the chef converts Vito into a kind of café, which starts at 8 am with a brunch menu, with eggs, toasts and bowls. At 18:00, a dinner menu opens. If it wasn’t enough, he expects to open a school to train employees later this year. Where? At Itaim Bibi, of course.

Discover the news from Itaim Bibi

Achilles
a. Pedroso Alvarenga, 909


act
a. Araújo’s parents, 138


Boteco Rainha
a. Pedroso Alvarenga, 1,181


dhumus
a. Amauri, 29


Queen Galeto (coming soon)
a. Araújo’s parents, 195


Koon
a. Dr. Mario Ferraz, 441


Le Quartier
a. Prof. Tamandaré Toledo, 25


Mag Market (coming soon)
a. Dr. Renato Paes de Barros, 433


mila
a. Paulista Flag, 1,096


Mooi Mooi
a. Manuel Guedes, 249


Bone/Drunks
a. Paulista Flag, 520


Vito Mozza Bar
a. Pedroso Alvarenga, 828


Yuu
a. Jeronimo da Veiga, 121

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