Caviar Kaspia, a classic restaurant in Paris, gains headquarters in SP with eggs of up to R$ 4,300

The delicate dark balls crown recipes that are often simple, like a baked potato and a boiled egg – even though they are one of the most luxurious ingredients in the world of gastronomy. Contrary to what Zeca Pagodinho sings, anyone who enters the Caviar Kaspia restaurant has usually seen, eaten and knows very well what caviar is.

The product is the star of the address, a classic opened in 1927 in Paris and which gained a branch in São Paulo in January of this year, the brand’s first unit in Latin America.

If in France, Kaspia opens its doors in exquisite addresses such as Place de la Madeleine and Galerias Lafayette, in São Paulo the restaurant is located in Shops Jardins, a small mall that houses brands such as Gucci, Dior and Balmain.

On the corner of Rua Oscar Freire and close to the Fasano hotel, two references of luxury in the capital of São Paulo, the property that houses the house has elegant geometric corridors punctuated by lots of greenery and open spaces. The kitchen is on the third floor, reserved for restaurants, and shares space with names like Gero Panini, Adega Santiago and Makoto.

In an environment marked by large windows and decor in a shade of green reminiscent of sea water, Kaspia usually has a lounge formed by couples, businessmen and groups of friends, who explore the menu with a strong French accent. But what people want, of course, is caviar.

First, a brief explanation. Strictly speaking, all caviar is a fish roe, but not all roe is caviar – that’s why the product is considered a delicacy in the world of gastronomy. Although we consume eggs of the most varied aquatic animals, such as salmon, mullet and sea urchin, only those of some species of sturgeon are classified as caviar.

The fish, one of the most primitive vertebrates on the planet, has slow growth, late sexual maturity and endangered or critically endangered species, which makes it an even more special ingredient.

Kaspia’s menu mainly lists Baeri caviar, which is served by weight: 15 g costs R$ 290, while 50 g costs R$ 290. Anyone who asks the waiter, however, can hear that the house has other varieties, if Oscietra and the very special Beluga Royal, sold in 50 g cans for R$ 4,300.

The delicacy can be ordered separately or appear in recipes. She crowns, for example, the famous baked potato of the house, served with a cream and a special spoon so as not to change its flavor. For R$970, you can eat a potato with 50 g of caviar. But there is a more modest version, made with salmon roe, for R$138.

To accompany the order, a shot of house vodka costs R$45.

Despite being the gimmick, not everything at Kaspia is caviar. Much of the menu remains attractive when the product leaves the scene and offers much more affordable prices. Signed by chef Fabiana Agostini, the menu features house classics and exclusive dishes made for Brazil, but without giving up the brand’s French cuisine style.

Among Agostini’s creations are the steamed sea bass with sherry foam, manioc puree and grilled romaine lettuce (R$118), the flat iron with potato gratin (R$220) and the rack of lamb with ratatouille (R$220). $189), for example. There is also seared tuna with mashed sweet potatoes and Asian sauce (R$89).

They are requested for those who do not or cannot afford such caviar -or for those who just want to hear about it.