Opinion – Cozinha Bruta: The R$89 rice and beans from Paris 6: Brazilians love bad restaurants

Almost R$90 for a dish made of rice, beans, hash, farofa, breaded banana and two eggs. This is the description of the new item on the menu of the Paris 6 restaurant chain – named Luva de Pedreiro in allusion to the influencer and sold at R$ 89 plus service fee.

Paris 6 is not known for the quality of the food. It gained fame for offering free dinners to actors, musicians and other celebrities who name their dishes. The general public is attracted to this mini-zoo of famous people.

And what about the Glove de Pedreiro dish? I didn’t eat, I don’t intend to eat and even so I think it’s impossible that it’s better than a PF of R$ 35 in a bar – a plausible value for Jardins, a wealthy region of São Paulo where the first Paris 6 was installed.

I already ate, some time ago, a similar dish that the DOM, by Alex Atala, served for lunch, also with crazy price for rice and beans. It was embarrassing to see the restaurant’s poor performance in daring to compete in another league. As if a heavyweight was going to box a featherweight and passed out from exhaustion from running so hard to catch up with the skinny guy.

And look, we’re talking about Atala, who at the time was among the ten most highly rated chefs in the world. Paris 6, on the other hand, doesn’t have that gastronomic capital to put at risk. His biggest hit is a Magnum popsicle jammed in the petit gâteau.

The food at Paris 6 is poor, the regulars know this and don’t give a damn. Brazilians love a bad and expensive restaurant. He loves a bar that charges the price of lunch for an inedible cocktail. In fact, this is a worldwide phenomenon. A house’s popularity has nothing to do with the quality of the food, drink or service.

Take collaborative rankings like the travel site Tripadvisor. In this one, the best restaurant in São Paulo is a Uruguayan-style grill called Fuego Celeste, rated with two stars in the Sheet Guide (the maximum score is five). Casa do Porco, which ranks seventh on the 50 Best list, embitters at number 67 on Tripadvisor. Among the restaurants in the city of São Paulo, only.

Just as there are crowds of fans of Romero Britto and Jair Bolsonaro, bad restaurants and bars recruit admirers willing to defend them with passion.

I recently published on Guide a review of the bar C… do Padre, in Pinheiros. In the text, I mentioned as a negative point the location too close to Guaicuí Street, which has become a corridor of horrendous bars.

in the post of Guide on Instagram, the ire of the Guaicuí fan club boiled over. They said that I didn’t understand anything about bars and that I should look for a rooftop in Faria Lima. So it’s.

The problem with Guaicuí is that it has too many bars, too loud music and too many people in too small a space. Even a good bar becomes a boring program under these conditions – there are a couple of them in Guaicuí, but the geolocation unfortunately makes them bad.

The remaining bars make zero effort to offer something minimally passable. Customers are leaving by the thief anyway. It’s like fishing in a fishing boat, why do it better?

If the bad bars and Paris 6 are always crowded, it’s because a lot of people like them. This is something that we – the so-called experts, whom these fans repudiate – have to live with. It’s useless to stress or try to change something. The solution is to ignore the internet commentators.

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