Alter do Chão surprises with hot water and pirarucu sausage with jambu

December 8, 2021

Robert

Arriving at the village of Alter do Chão, a district located 37 kilometers from Santarém, in the west of Pará, is like entering paradise.

The blue sky with some clouds, the preserved nature, sparkling sand beaches and the grandeur and beauty of the Tapajós River, with its warm and calm waters, form the perfect setting for a season of at least five days, where the only sin it’s not getting into the local climate and enjoying the Amazon as it deserves.

Covid-19 prevention measures are maintained in Alter do Chão. After an entire season without tourists due to the disease, hotels and inns require the use of masks indoors. The exception is at eating time, as long as the guests stay away.

The same condition applies to restaurants and bars. On boats, the use of a mask is also mandatory and there is a passenger limit. On the streets there are people with and without masks. Little crowding happens in the central square, especially at night.

The main attraction of Alter do Chão, territory of Indians from the Borari ethnic group discovered by the Portuguese in the 17th century, is Ilha do Amor, located right in front of the village.

At the height of summer, which runs from July to December, you can cross the river on foot, but there are boats (canoes) that transport up to four adults at a time for an almost symbolic value, which represents a lot for local workers — after all, they are just six months to make money for a whole year.

On the island, it is possible to settle in one of the more than ten stalls that offer quality food and drinks – hearty portions of fish, prepared dishes, beers, juices and drinks.

The tables with umbrellas are by the water, all facing Lago Verde. The sun rises in this direction, crosses the island and says goodbye slowly on the opposite side, disappearing into the immensity of the Tapajós River – a spectacle to be seen and applauded every day.

From the island, you can also walk to other corners of Lago Verde and get away from the bustle, more common on weekends.

Continuing along the riverbank, you can reach Ponta do Tauá on foot or, with more breath, Ponta do Cururu –a strip of sand that enters through the Tapajós–, where tourists arrive daily to watch the sunset. The bath is free in any location. Sun protection and plenty of water to drink are essential.

One of the main local attractions is also on the island, Serra da Piroca or Piraoca. After walking for two kilometers and climbing 110 meters, you have a 360-degree view of the entire region – beaches, lagoons and forest.

At the top, there is a cross made of iron and wooden signs indicating the direction and mileage of several destinations in the world, from New York, USA, to Sydney, Australia, as well as Buenos Aires, Argentina.

From the village, you also have access to beaches, such as Cajueiro. A little further on, the CAT (Tourist Service Center) is located.

A wooden walkway built on site provides a spectacular view of the sunset. There are no tents, drinks or entertainment available in this place, as in Ilha do Amor, but it is worth the visit to meet local residents and observe customs.

Walking on the sand above the Tapajós River, it is also possible to reach Ponta do Muretá on foot. The clear waters and white sand are an invitation to a whole day in the place, taking advantage of the shade of the cashew trees and other trees.

At this point there is no service structure. Therefore, it is essential to bring snacks and fruits, fast food and plenty of water. The farewell to the sun is cinematic and unforgettable.

Going up the river, it is also possible to reach Ponta do Caxambu and Pindobal beach, this one already in the municipality of Belterra. The walk, however, requires a lot of physical preparation and disposition.

For all these places, there is the possibility of visiting through nautical tours departing from the edge of Alter do Chão. Departures in speedboats are organized by Atufa (Association of River Tourism of Alter do Chão), from the kiosk in front of Ilha do Amor.

One of the unmissable tours is a visit to the Tapajós National Forest, better known as the Tapajós Flona. The boat takes tourists to the community of Jamaraquá, where it is possible to immerse themselves in the forest in the company of native guides and bathe in an ice-cold stream.

The forest is a federal conservation unit created in 1974 under the responsibility of ICMBio (Chico Mendes Institute for Biodiversity Conservation).

Another tour that can be done is to Ponta de Pedras beach. In the city of Santarém, it is worth seeing the meeting of the waters between the Tapajós and Amazonas rivers, which from there follow together to the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean, on the border between the states of Pará and Amapá.

This entire journey can be done by ship, which is one of the main means of transport in the Amazon, linking cities such as Macapá, Belém, Santarém, Parintins and Manaus.

The offer of hotels and inns is large, as well as restaurants. The most common typical dish is made with pirarucu fish, but there is also peacock bass, tambaqui, cigars.

Among the creative ways of preparation are the pirarucu sausage with jambu (a plant that causes a sensation of numbness in the mouth) and the piracuí cake, a version similar to the cod cake. Santarém bean salad is served with monkey ears, a form of Amazonian spinach.

Banana-da-terra is served as an accompaniment, as well as cassava flour. Pará rice, vatapá and maniçoba are also delicacies that cannot be missed. Tacacá is present, as well as cupuaçu-based sweets.

Alter do Chão became widely known in 2009, after the English newspaper “The Guardian” named Ilha do Amor as the most beautiful beach in Brazil.

Tourism has intensified in the place. The village gained new inns and hotels. But the speed has not been the same for the arrival of urban infrastructure.

Most streets are still unpaved. When it rains, it all goes down towards the river, favoring siltation. The shore, which would have everything to be a great meeting place, is unmaintained. Banks are broken, and bars are destroyed.

The district, which in September holds the Sairé –religious and profane manifestation due to Portuguese colonization and indigenous culture, respectively–, does not have basic sanitation.

There are about 10 thousand residents without treated and piped water, or sewage collection and treatment. The water comes from wells and sewage is deposited in pits, some without waterproofing. There are works in progress in the sector, but without a completion date.