Portugal holds good surprises for tourists who don’t want to elbow their way to a place in line for Elétrico 28, Lisbon’s iconic yellow cable car, and are willing to explore the interior of the country.
One of these surprises is small Estremoz, in the Alentejo region. Less than two hours by car from the Portuguese capital, through a road that is a real carpet, the traveler escapes the popular walks and has the opportunity to discover a more “rooted” Portugal.
Cozy and sunny, the city is ideal to enjoy peace, travel through history and delight in the typical Alentejo cuisine, washed down with good wine.
Founded in 1258, Estremoz was built around a hill, fortified with stone walls. Four doors made of marble give access to the labyrinthine streets of the old town. After a winding slope, you arrive at Largo Dom Dinis, where the main historical patrimonies of the Upper Town are located, such as the Castelo de Estremoz, the Church of Santa Maria e Santiago and the Chapel of Nosso Senhor dos Inocentes.
The hill’s silhouette is dominated by the castle, which is now an inn. Its tower, known as Torre das Três Coroas, is one of the most preserved of Portuguese medieval military architecture.
From the top of its 27 meters, or 300 narrow steps, it is possible to see the Cidade Baixa, a more modern region, which is nevertheless ancient and full of ancestry. Rossio stands out in the landscape, as the central square is called, the busiest space in the city.
In Rossio’s cafes and restaurants, you can taste authentic regional cuisine, such as Alentejo-style pork. Served fried with boiled clams, the dish is prepared with black pork, a species of Iberian origin. Perfect with a good Alentejo red wine.
If Alentejo wines are recognized today, 40 years ago the story was different. Until the 1980s, only Portuguese wines produced in Porto and Douro had worldwide recognition. The production of Alentejo farmers was sent to large wineries, which made blends and bottled generic wines.
Who put Alentejo on the wine map was the winemaker João Portugal Ramos, 69. He led a young generation of winemakers, who transformed the Alentejo viticulture, with the modernization of the production process and the creation of individual wines of controlled origin.
It was exactly in small Estremoz that, 30 years ago, João Portugal built his winery, Adega Vila Santa. He took advantage of the diversity of the local soil, full of white clay, limestone, shale and, above all, marble, one of the hallmarks of the city, to develop his terroir.
From there, award-winning wines come out, such as Estremus, one of the most prestigious labels of the house, which, in Brazil, costs more than R$ 1,800. It is produced with trincadeira and alicante bouschet grapes, harvested from vines planted at the foot of the castle.
In addition to good wines, Adega Vila Santa also offers a series of activities for wine tourism lovers. There are guided tours of the winery, tastings and lunches, with prices ranging from 17.50 to 85 euros per person.
In the harvest months, from September to October, those who arrive there can participate in the traditional treading of the grapes in the marble presses. For those who don’t want too much action, picnics are an option (45 euros per person).
One of the most popular programs allows the amateur winemaker to become a professional for one day (45 euros per head). With the guidance of the cellar’s technical team, it is possible to create blends and make your own wine, with the right to write the name on the label.
With a bottle like that in hand, who needs to bring the typical chickens of Portugal as a souvenir?
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