There’s a different joke in the Amazon — and it’s not just because of COP27. With the arrival of the dry season, from October to January, an immensity of sandbanks appears along the course of the Rio Negro, in the north of the state. It is the delight of the proud people of Amazonas —especially from the surrounding villages and communities— and also of tourists, who have one more reason to want to be there: to enjoy the freshwater beaches in the middle of the forest.
Five days and four nights: it is the period that lasts one of the most sought after expeditions by Katerre, the brand that owns three boats for experiences in the jungle, including the Jacaré Açu, which sails through the Jaú National Park, one of the largest and oldest units of conservation in the country.
It is approximately 22 km long, 430 islands and 500 meters from one bank to the other. Being aboard the Rio Negro is, as Hemingway said of Paris, “a party.” Only a green and silent party, in the open, unique and genuinely Brazilian.
The first stop on the journey, departing from the small town of Novo Airão, is the Madadá region. There are those who prefer to spend the night in the jungle, swinging in a hammock, overlooking the Rio Negro, to count the stars and sleep closer to the animals.
The next morning there is the sunrise to be seen from the lookout point. And, throughout the day, a trail through the forest that leads to the Madadá caves. On the way back, a stop at the caboclo farm and a dip in the river, at Praia do Sono, to melt in front of the orange sunset.
A wild but comfortable Amazon.
For 13 years, the Jacaré Açu, made of itaúba hardwood, has been traveling up and down the Negro River at an average speed of 12 to 15 km/h, stopping at small villages known as riverside communities.
There are three floors, eight cabins (double beds and bunk beds), deck with hammocks, shower and space for the main attraction of the trip: contemplating. There’s no internet or cell phone signal — a total detox. The only sound alert is the ringing of the bell that comes from the kitchen to let you know that lunch is ready.
Illustrious citizens have already been present there, from Maria Gadú (who recorded “Mundo Líquido” on board) to Milton Nascimento, who was so happy to repeat the expedition and even gave the crew a piece of cake.
The guide is indigenous, Josué, born and raised in the region, as well as the entire crew. He leads the tour teaching tricks and secrets of the forest, how to climb the açaí tree and defend against jaguar attacks.
It also narrates myths and rites of the original peoples, among them the passage from childhood to adulthood among boys in the villages. “The boy puts on a glove full of tapiba ant, whose sting causes at least 14 days of pain, and goes out dancing in the tribe with his hand up. He has become a man.”
One detail: tapiba ants release a scent that repels not only mosquitoes, but also significantly larger bloodthirsty birds such as jaguars.
Third day on board and it’s time to enter the Jaú National Park, which covers almost the entire Negro river basin, with about 2.3 million hectares. One of the attractions is the ruins of Airão Velho, remnants of a city built during the heyday of rubber and destroyed during the military dictatorship.
Moreover, it is nature that commands the show. Keep an eye out for birds and aquatic mammals, such as porpoises (they are born gray and turn pink), herons, macaws, parrots and giant otters.
“The predators of the Amazon, alligator, anaconda, dogfish, piranha and macaw piranha [o tubarão dos rios]they only attack in areas close to the trunks, with stagnant water”, informs Josué, after commenting on the candiru, fearsome and tiny fish that enters through the urethra.
A visit to the great tree in the Amazon, the samaúma, yields more than good photos of a group hug on its trunk. On the Jaú river, with mirror-like waters, a canoe trip through the igapó, in the community of Aturiá, is an invitation to reflection.
At night, the program is to go up in the voadeira (vessels for up to five people) to see alligators, which only keep their eyes out of the water.
Under the advice of chef Debora Shornik, the food served is typical of the northern region: freshwater fish in the foreground, tapioca crepes, yam rolls and tropical fruits for breakfast.
One of the expedition’s hallmarks is sustainable tourism as an alternative source of income for traditional riverside populations. A visit to the Cachoeira community is enough to lose yourself in conversation with the residents, families of indigenous people who live on the banks of the Negro.
They protect the river and its inhabitants, bury turtle eggs in the backyard —about three thousand turtles are released safely into nature annually— and invite you to visit the flour mill, where cassava flour is produced.
The Amazon Rainforest is the largest biodiversity shelter in the world, with 30 million species of animals, 180 of which are at risk of extinction. With a conservation bias, the Projeto Bicho de Casco has been working for almost two decades to protect the four species of chelonians threatened in the Negro River basin and its tributaries: iaçá, irapuca, tracajá and Amazonian turtle.
In the fight against illegal trafficking, a task force moves six communities, with inspectors and volunteers who monitor seven spawning areas on the Jauaperi River.
The evening meal, now back in Novo Airão, includes interaction with the river dolphins (which are not trapped) and a city tour to see handicrafts and initiatives such as the Almerinda Malaquias Foundation, whose backbone is an environmental education center for dozens of children and teenagers from seven to 15 years old.
Before returning to Manaus, a valuable and invigorating tip is to spend the night at Mirante do Gavião, opened in 2014, on the banks of the Negro River, opposite the Anavilhanas National Park.
A lodge with unique experiences from which expeditions depart towards the most remote and preserved regions of the Amazon, in all its complexity —a Brazilian-style safari through the largest and most exuberant tropical forest, the green heart of the planet.
KATERRE EXPEDITION
Novo Airão, 200km from Manaus. The value of the itineraries varies according to the vessel, the time on the boat, the itinerary and the number of people. Jacaré Açu (chartered expedition for closed groups: R$ 16,960/day (amount split for four people) to R$ 31,670/day (16 people). Including transfer and meal (with alcoholic beverage). katerre.com
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Mirante do Gavião: Daily rates, with full board and transfer, daily rates for a couple from R$1,944 in the low season (February 26th to June 30th), and R$2,244 in the regular season. mirantedogaviao.com.br
The journalist traveled at the invitation of Katerre
What to take
- Light clothing (don’t forget to include some long-sleeved shirts, preferably with UV protection, and at least one pair of pants)
- water canteen
- cap or hat
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- light rain cover
- basic flashlight
- Swimsuit
- Trail wraps or towels
- Waterproof or zip-type bag to protect cameras on trails
- sneakers and slippers
- Insect repellent
- Personal hygiene products
- Commonly consumed medicines (remote areas don’t have large pharmacies, so don’t count on buying certain items)
- Camera
- Small backpack for hiking and trails during the day
- Binoculars
- It is recommended to take the vaccine against yellow fever
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