Mendoza, capital of malbec wine, is now betting on whites and rosés

In Mendoza, even the fountains in the squares make a point of reminding those who pass by them: this is the land of malbec. The dancing waters dyed red in the public spaces refer to the grape variety that made Argentina known worldwide for its red wines.

Recently, however, visits to wineries around the city, capital of the homonymous province, have made tourists see different colors in the glasses. White, rosé and sparkling labels have multiplied among the options of some brands and are Mendoza’s new bet to gain prestige beyond the classic malbec.

Bodega Norton, founded in 1895, is the largest producer of white wines in the region. Today, just over half of the winery’s 20 million liters a year go to reds. The others, around 10 million bottles per year, are whites, rosés and sparkling wines.

This shift, says Michael Halstrick, CEO and owner of Norton, was designed about five years ago and gained more strength during the pandemic — not only in his company, but as a worldwide trend, he points out.

“Perhaps because it is an easier wine to drink”, says the Austrian, who moved to Mendoza three decades ago to manage his family’s winery, the Swarovskis, known for their brand of crystals.
“Before, I didn’t sell anything, but now there’s even a lack of whites on the market”, he adds, who in the New World is better known as Miguel.

Exports, he says, are led by the US and the Netherlands. Brazil, where Norton’s wines are distributed by importer Casa Flora, is on target to be a market of the same magnitude.

One of the reinforcements for the white line came from the homeland of the owner family: the Austrian variety grüner veltliner. The first labels came out between 2018 and 2019, making Norton, headed by Argentine winemaker David Bonomi, the first winery in South America to use this grape.

But the production of whites and rosés is not limited to grape varieties new to the region, on the contrary. The malbec grape, if gently pressed, does not leave the intense color characteristic of its skin in the must and gives rise to “malbec blanco” and “malbec rosado”.

The winery Susana Balbo, owned by the eponymous winemaker, a pioneer among women in this profession in Argentina, is one of those that have adopted this other use.

“Argentina is known for its potent reds, especially malbec, but our innovative DNA allows us to think outside the box and represent our country with high quality whites and rosés”, says the winery’s text that invites you to visit the headquarters. At Susana Balbo, currently 30% to 40% of production is white and rosé.

In addition to the market figures, the boost of these wines means, for tourists, being able to enjoy Mendoza with glasses of lighter and colder drinks, ideal for the heat.

And precisely one of the best seasons to discover (or revisit) the region begins in January. From the end of this month until April, a time when the highs easily reach 30°C, the grape harvest takes place.

It is during this period that it is possible to witness the beautiful images of vineyards full of leaves and bunches of grapes, the opposite of what is seen in winter, when only branches of the plants remain amidst the snow —not that this freezing scene, framed by the Cordillera of the Andes and its ever-white peaks, do not impress. After all, in 2022 there were 3.5 million visitors to the province of Mendoza, adding up all seasons.

To celebrate the harvest period, the capital annually organizes a party with music and dance performances. In 2023, the program will take place from March 3 to 6 (information at vendimia.mendoza.gov.ar). Wineries also usually offer special tours in these months, so that visitors can get to know this stage of production up close and even help with the harvest.

For first-time wine tourists, some warnings: the region is very sunny and dry. If for wines the combination is a champion —added to the water that melts from the mountains and ensures that plants can be irrigated—, for tourists it demands attention. Sunscreen, hat and water are essential.

It is also important to keep in mind that you cannot drink and drive in Mendoza. Brazil’s zero tolerance rule applies to alcohol. In this way, hiring tours to the wineries is the most recommended.

In addition, it is good to have professional drivers because there are regions that can only be reached by the most difficult roads — but that compensate for the extreme landscapes. Those who want to discover the new frontiers of production in Mendoza, in the Uco Valley, for example, can expect to come across rocky landscapes on the edge of the Andes on the way to wineries such as Finca Sophenia and Andeluna.

It is there that, due to the wide temperature range, the characteristics of the soil and the high altitude (above a thousand meters), the malbec grape and many others have guaranteed bottles with admirable balance and acidity —in all colors.

VISITS TO WINERIES

norton

It is open to visits and activities from Monday to Sunday. They cost from 4,500 pesos (about R$127) to 21,500 pesos (R$608) per person. Reservation required at wineobs.com.ar/mro/norton.

Susana Balbo

There are tours and tastings every day, with prices from 6,500 pesos (R$183) to 41,500 pesos (R$1,170), per person, subject to reservation. Information at turismo-susana-balbo-wines.meitre.com.

Andeluna

It receives visits from Tuesdays to Sundays, with programs ranging from 5,550 pesos (R$ 156) to 21,530 pesos (R$ 607), per person. Reservations at wineobs.com.ar/mro/andeluna.

Finca Sophenia

Visits from Tuesdays to Saturdays, from 3,200 pesos (R$90) to 6,500 pesos (R$183) per person. Bookings must be sent via email [email protected]. Information at sophenia.com.ar.

_{The journalist traveled at the invitation of Bodega Norton}