In the form of paste, ganache and topping in showy pieces, pistachio has become a prominent raw material in the production of confectionery in São Paulo.
The color of the chestnut, of Asian origin, varies in tones ranging from green to purple. “The best ones have a delicate flavor, they are very aromatic and slightly sweet”, says Pedro Frade, a chef graduated from Ferrandi, a superior school of French cuisine, in Paris.
Most of the pistachios consumed in Brazil are Iranian, but the country also receives lots from the United States, Italy, Turkey, China and Syria, says Frade.
Many desserts, it is good to remember, are made with emulsion that has its flavor artificially reconstructed — without the nutty taste and military green or brown color that the ingredient gives.
With that in mind, below is a guide to try pistachio recipes in São Paulo.
With a legacy of almost 90 years in Lebanon, where it has more than 50 stores, the house arrived in Brazil selling artisan ice cream —which is also successful thanks to the chopped Iranian pistachio crust that the gelato can receive, after the balls go to the cone (the simple one costs R$14 and the covered with pistachio, R$20). Among the flavors, the flagship is milk with orange blossom, but there are also more traditional versions, such as chocolate and vanilla.
R. Diogo Jácome, 686, Vila Nova Conceição, south region, WhatsApp (11) 97301-7070, bachirbrasil. Delivery via iFood or phone
With six units in the city, it serves more than 20 dessert options with French techniques and Brazilian ingredients — with a few exceptions, such as pistachio. The oilseed is used in the preparation of éclair and paris-brest. The first, priced at R$15.50 each (60 grams), is filled with pistachio crème pâtissière and covered in fondant with pieces of the ingredient. The paris-brest (R$ 280, 850 grams), made to order at least three days in advance, features choux pastry, pistachio cream filling and caramelized hazelnut topping.
R. Ferreira de Araújo, 376, Pinheiros, west region, WhatsApp (11) 97095-3888 or tel. (11) 5182-5088,
@confeitariadama. Delivery via Ifood
With a Japanese vocation, the house offers authorial, delicate, light and low-sugar desserts, signed by pastry chef Cesar Yukio. Makes, to order, the pistachioberry cake, sold in three sizes (from R$120, for eight people), assembled with vanilla chiffon dough, pistachio mousse and red fruit whipped cream topping.
R. Demétrio Ribeiro, 785, Tatuapé, eastern region, WhatsApp (11) 93082-2782, @hanamiconfeitaria. Delivery via iFood
The chocolate factory adheres to the bean-to-bar movement, which preaches greater care with the origin and treatment of the raw material used, cocoa. When it comes to pistachios, there are, among the possibilities, crème brûlée, ice cream and cheesecake, the best choice. The dessert (R$ 32, individual) is assembled in three layers: biscuit dough, homemade whole pistachio paste and, on top, pistachio ganache.
R. Moreira e Costa, 482, Ipiranga, south region, @flavorati_. Delivery via iFood
The atelier started in 2016 in Campo Belo with cookies as its flagship. Currently, the recipe is no longer unanimous in the taste of customers: pies and cakes form the majority of orders. Among them is the crunchy pistachio (R$ 325, 15 cm in diameter), made of white dough stuffed with pistachio brigadeiro mixed with sugared pistachios. On the outside, the cake, made to order, is studded with pistachios.
Orders at stellecookierie.com or by tel. (11) 91214-7965.Instagram @stellecookierie
Pastry chef Lara Carolina, who started making the recipe for the Italian sweet to give as a gift to friends, opened the shop after participating in Record’s Top Chef Brasil reality show. The version of pistachio tiramisu (R$ 58, 250 grams) is the second most requested there, made with 100% natural chestnut paste added to mascarpone cream. Finally, instead of cocoa, the chef sprinkles pieces of pistachio.
R. Marselhesa, 447, Vila Mariana, south region, @tiramisubr. Delivery via iFood and Rappi
Vila Anália Pâtisserie
The confectionery within the gastronomic complex is led by chef Pedro Frade. There, he serves entremets (dessert composed of different layers and textures, always light) following in the footsteps of Frenchman Cédric Grolet. Among the sweet versions is the one with chocolate biscuit, pistachio namelaka (ultra-creamy cousin of the ganache), pistachio whipped cream and pistachio praline (R$ 34).
R. Cândido Lacerda, 33, Jardim Anália Franco, eastern region, @grupovilaanalia. Delivery via iFood
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