“Flying” oenologist from Florina travels thousands of kilometers every year to create wines

It is still morning, when the young woman enters the “conscious” half-darkness of the winery, having previously driven tens of kilometers to the semi-mountainous network of Northern Greece, before the sun rises well … There, among the thick stone walls, near the tall tanks and large oak barrels, a new wine will be born in the next few hours and everyone is under steam. In a little while they will meet for the first time the “newborn”, for which it took a long time to work, from the stage of selection of the raw material to the experimental vinification on a forgotten Greek variety.

The woman takes a deep breath as she folds the sleeves of her shirt to get a job. Making wines is her job. And every year Artemis Toulaki, starting from Florina, “writes” many thousands of kilometers, to be close to the Greek and Cypriot wine producers, as a mobile independent oenologist. Or a “flying winemaker”, as the term “flying winemaker” (said to have been coined by 77-year-old English wine merchant Tony Laithwaite) may be considered a “reserve” for those of her colleagues who travel by air around the world to offer services to winemakers around the world, but in a way it suits her: she often travels by air to offer her services to winemakers in Cyprus.

Twenty-five wineries, from Florina to Ikaria and from Lemnos to Cyprus

“Today I work with 25 wineries. The largest number is found in Northern Greece, but also on islands such as Lemnos and Ikaria. As of this year, I am also attending the largest Cypriot winery. The kilometers are really countless! “Think that the distance between Florina and Cyprus is 1400 kilometers and I do it at least 10 times a year”, says Artemis Toulaki to APE-MPE.

It is not an easy job, as the many trips mean that she stays away from her family for several days every year, but she has emotions: “I will not forget my first date with my eldest son, at the age of 42, which was nowhere else ; In a winery. “As I will not forget a phone call I received many years ago, from an elderly winemaker-associate, to thank me with tears of emotion, for his first gold medal, in an important competition abroad!”, He recalls.

Knowing varieties, microclimates and people in different parts of the map

But how did he decide to become a “freelancer” and move constantly, instead of opting for the exclusive cooperation with a winery? “The idea of ​​working with winemakers in different parts of the Greek map, to make different varieties and to know different microclimates, was something I dreamed of from my first oenological steps. After very important collaborations with wineries such as “Kyr-Gianni SA” of Giannis Boutaris, the company “Tsantalis SA”, but also the historic cooperative winery of Amyntaio, the idea matured to establish my own consulting oenological company. “The beginning was in 2010, when” Wine consulting “was founded, based in Florina”, she says and adds that her work helped her realize the uniqueness of each region. “Every area hides a small or big love for me. “For the people, the vineyards, the wines, the gastronomy, the history of the place, the natural beauties”, he says.

The magical Xinomavro and the experimental vinifications in forgotten Greek varieties

Is there a variety he loves the most? Are there forgotten Greek varieties that could “wake up”, as Vangelis Gerovassiliou woke up Malagouzia? “During this period I vinify 42 different varieties. Clearly my great love is Xinomavro, which varies from region to region, something that makes it magical. At the same time we are working on nine experimental vinifications in forgotten Greek varieties, but we are trying to highlight -with different vinification styles- the emblematic Cypriot Maratheftiko, Giannoudi and Xinisteri. Unique things are coming! ” he says with a smile.

During the economic crisis in Greece, many small – sometimes very remarkable – wineries were created. Is it possible for all these small businesses to survive? “Clearly yes! But under certain conditions. “Success is intertwined with quality, which requires scientific monitoring, systematic work, extroversion, proper costing, communication, use of technology”, he estimates.

He believes that in recent years very good work has been done by Greek winemakers in the field of exports. “It is an effort that requires many years, it takes time for Greek wine to gain recognition abroad, it needs to invest a lot of money, to choose the right marketing plan. “But success is starting to come and will be achieved mainly with the Greek varieties”, he points out.

Her most difficult oenological project: the first Greek red foam from Xinomavro

Artemis Toulaki’s biography is full of wines, in the vinification of which she participated, and they received distinctions. Do any of them stand out? “Ah, which one should I single out first… The Xinomavro of the Vegoritis Estate is an important station in the wine events, the” Alexandra “of Claudia Papagianni is a special Greek Malagouzia, the” White Stone “from the Stergiou Estate an exceptional blend Sauv & Riesling, Spyropoulos’ Assyrtiko a unique Greek white… But also “Aphrodite”, the first Greek red foam from Xinomavro by Ch. Taralas, which is for me, the most difficult oenological project I have done. In sweet wines, Liasstos tou Nakou is a favorite and multi-award winning. For the end, I leave the Commandaria of the Cypriot winery “Oino Gi- Ktima Vassiliadis”, a world-class wine. “But I forget a lot more,” he says.

“The success of an oenologist is not to make wines, but to create special moments”

Her creative passion does not stop at winemaking, but also goes on to educate wine lovers and create experiences through wines. At least 400 wine lovers are enrolled in the Aristotle Wine Academy. A non-profit effort made by my husband, Kosmas Roufa, to communicate wine and gastronomy, culture. The creation of the Academy arose as a need for learning of the people of the small community of Florina – and not only “he says and concludes:” Let us not forget that the success of an oenologist is not to make wines to drink them himself, but to create special moments through wines… ».

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