Opinion – Marcelo Katsuki: RéRestaurant by Dona Suzana has homemade food and hospitality

Anyone who watched the episode of the Netflix series ‘Street Food: América Latina’ about Salvador was certainly moved by the story of Suzana Sapucaia Dias, Suzana. his restaurant, improvised in the backyard of the house — but with an impressive view of Todos-os-Santos Bay.

Getting to the restaurant can seem complicated as it is located in the heart of the community. But just ask the locals, who know the way well, after all, the cook has become a local celebrity. Or follow the directions at the end of the text.

Dona Suzana lives with her family, which includes her husband, children and grandchildren. So going to her house is also participating in her life. The children play on the stairs, the son argues with the waiter, the bathroom is domestic, all very real.

And since we are in a house, it is worth noting that the food is deliciously homemade. Márcio, the son who shares the functions with Dona Suzana, excels at snacks and moquecas, which arrive bubbling on the tables, accommodated in clay pots.

We chose the first table, right at the entrance, which provided protection from the sun and a great view of the bay. There is a table in the covered corridor and some tables with umbrellas scattered in the backyard, which also offer a beautiful view.

We ordered a fried guaricema as a starter, accompanied by farofa and salad (R$ 35), which shone with the cold beer. The light manioc flour that accompanies the dish also has its value.

The main course was a mixed moqueca (R$ 80) for three people, with fish and shrimp, which arrive bathed in the delicious preparation sauce, made with fresh coconut milk and fresh palm oil! They also accompany rice, beans in olive oil, palm oil farofinha and pirão. My Bahian friends commented that it was the best homemade Bahian food could offer, full of affective references from mothers and grandmothers, while I scraped the broth from the bottom of the plate.

There is no dessert in the restaurant, at least I didn’t see it, but there is no shortage of sweetness. Dona Suzana welcomes everyone with great affection, accommodates customers, asks if they are being well attended. At the end, payment is made at the machine positioned at the entrance, next to the RéRestaurant sign. It’s time for the photo with Suzana, who wipes the sweat from her face and puts on a smile. A joy.

How to get to RéRestaurant

1. Take an Uber and get off at the entrance of MAM (Museum of Modern Art of Bahia). Take the street to the left of the museum entrance, full of graffiti, and walk to the community (about 50 meters). If you go by car, pay to park on the same street (we pay R$15 for the guy who takes care of access).

two. Once you enter the community, walk about 20 meters to the first crossroads. Take the ladder on the right.

3. Go down the alley for about 30 meters until you find a corridor on the right with a narrow staircase overlooking the bay. There is access to the restaurant. And if you get lost, you already know: just ask for help and the people in the community are very helpful.

ReRestaurant – little map here
Solar do Unhão Community – Rua da Conceição da Praia, 1294-1490, Salvador (BA) – Tel.: (71) 8795-7666