Curry’s does almost everything right, but it lacks the fire to make Indian food explode with flavors

If there is an unavoidable cliché in texts describing Indian food, it is that it is an “explosion of flavors”. There are so many spices and peppers —many little known to the Western palate— that the taste buds are agitated, somewhat attacked and surprised by what is happening, in a delicious sensation.

Curry’s, in the Liberdade neighborhood, does almost everything right by introducing this ancient cuisine that is still not very popular in São Paulo. The problem is that the restaurant holds back on the spiciness and takes away the fundamental fire for the so-called “explosion”, offering food that is very aromatic and tasty, but excessively tamed.

The effort to reproduce the traditional dishes of the Indian diaspora around the world (especially in the United Kingdom) is evident, and the milder version seems more in line with Brazilian tastes. The food served there is tasty and very aromatic, a good introduction to one of the richest cuisines in the world without the risk of suffering the consequences of facing a real Indian curry. But this also takes away a lot of the experience of being surprised by the most striking flavors of this country’s food.

This is the case of the chicken tikka masala (R$60), recognized as the “national dish” of England, as Indian cuisine is so strong there. The cubes of roasted chicken with creamy sauce, tomatoes and onions are full of spices and smells new to the Brazilian palate, but without the strength of even the mildest ones served in London (what can we say about when it is made in India). The same happens with the chicken kurma (R$56) in which the chicken is covered in a great sauce with coconut milk, tasty, but without impact on the taste.

Even the mutton rogan josh, which promises “a pepper” on the menu, arrives with almost no spiciness. This classic prepared with lamb in a sauce of tomato, garlic, ginger and Indian spices is very tasty and different for the Brazilian palate, but it leaves something missing.

It’s true that there’s always a pot of good hot pepper sauce nearby, but putting it on top isn’t the same as having the seasoning already incorporated into the dishes.

In addition to these classics, Curry’s has gained popularity thanks to serving full dishes in a traditional Indian style. For around R$60 it is possible to order some typical ones such as kofta curry (with meat dumplings in tomato sauce), butter chicken (roasted chicken in a creamy butter sauce), mutton curry (lamb with spices) and prawns curry (shrimp with well-seasoned sauce).

These come in an executive meal version on a large tray with traditional accompaniments such as naan (Indian bread in a very uninspired version) and salad, in addition to being complemented with samosa (a savory stuffed fried in a triangular shape) and gulabjamun (a sweet ball of powdered milk and wheat flour, fried and dipped in sugar and cardamom syrup), which serves as a dessert.

They can be a good introduction to Indian food, especially for those who prefer a tamer, less spicy version of it. But the caveat of the lack of impact is valid, even for those who are not generally a fan of pepper.

When I lived in London in the late 2010s and ate at Indian restaurants frequently, I used to joke that the experience was only funny when the person felt “attacked” by so much spice. It was like a blow that left your mouth numb and your stomach uncomfortable, but at the same time it was delicious. On days when he took it easy and chose less spicy dishes, he always left frustrated, as if the experience had been incomplete.

Considering that São Paulo does not have such a strong tradition of restaurants focusing on Indian cuisine, and that the city’s public is not as familiar with spicy cuisine, Curry’s is undoubtedly a happy addition to the local repertoire. Their food has impressive smells and very pleasant flavors. It just lacks the punch that makes Indian food so appealing, so challenging and so delicious.