Parrilla, the ‘hermanos’ barbecue’, takes on a Brazilian flavor; see restaurants in SP

Barbecue Day is celebrated this Wednesday (24). For years, the national passion for roasted meats was based on all-you-can-eat steakhouses with countless options of cuts of beef, pork, poultry and even some unusual cuts, such as frog and alligator. This system, however, seems less and less common and is starting to give way to other preparation models, such as the parrilla.

According to Cristiano Rodrigues, chef at Casa Porteña – a restaurant specializing in parrilla –, the change in meat consumption in Brazil is driven by the taste of customers. “Before, the steakhouse was about access to meat. But in the rotations, with the back and forth of the skewer, there is a loss of food quality, in addition to the risk of cross-contamination. The transformation was instigated by consumers, who began to notice about it,” he says.

“Today, there are still rotations, but many have been reformulated. Houses don’t put a whole piece on the skewer, they make smaller cuts and pass them on the tables. As there is a small quantity, consumption is faster and, sometimes, on a large table It’s already over. This way it doesn’t spoil or contaminate. It’s a way of maintaining the standard of quality and flavor of the meat”, he says.

In this concept, houses that work with parrilla appear. Still according to Rodrigues, the method has some differences from the barbecue called ground fire and enhances the taste of the meat just with a good choice of cut and salt. “The main changes are in the seasoning, the way of roasting, the reduced distance from the coals and the time it takes for the meat to be ready.”

See the differences between traditional Brazilian barbecue and parrilla:

• Barbecue: meat seasoned with salt and condiments; charcoal on the bottom of the barbecue since the beginning of the process; embers up to 40 cm away; Bake between 15 and 20 minutes.
• Parrilla: meat seasoned with salt; firewood or charcoal burn in a box (firebox) and only when incandescent are they passed under the grill; embers up to 15 cm away; bake between 5 and 8 minutes.

The method was imported from two neighboring countries: Argentina and Uruguay, but it even reaches the south of Brazil, the place where the ground fire originated. “In the courses I participate in, I see chefs’ interest in taking the technique across the country, even in the southern states”, says Rodrigues.

The prestige of the parrilla is such that the third best restaurant (and 1st for meat) in the 50 Best Latin America ranking is Don Julio, in Buenos Aires.

Next, discover seven restaurants in São Paulo to try the “churrasco dos hermanos”.

Home Porteña

It is a restaurant specializing in parrilla and has four locations. The main inspiration is Argentine, but the menu received a Brazilian touch, offering side dishes such as rice and farofa. The highlights of the cuts are the ojo de steak (R$264) and the vacio (R$249), both for sharing. To accompany, the criolla salad (R$59), which includes watercress, cherry tomatoes and boursin cheese, finished with caramelized walnuts and fig vinegar, and the lemon risotto (R$56) are a hit.

R. Capitão Pacheco e Chaves, 313, Mooca. See all addresses on the restaurant’s website. @casa.portena

Chimichurri

It offers good barbecue in an environment that has the informality typical of bars. The restaurant offers the most traditional cuts of Argentine asado, such as entraña, which is the tender cut of the beef diaphragm (R$ 99), strip asado, rib (R$ 139), veal steak, close to diaper ( R$ 69) and arañita, taken from the animal’s pelvis (R$ 62). The ancho steak (R$ 105) is the flagship and most ordered dish in the house

Av. Prof. Alfonso Bovero, 730, Perdizes, west zone, tel. (11) 3871-9373

Rincon Hidden

It’s not exactly a restaurant that opens daily; in fact, the place offers parrilla experiences. Whether it’s lunches, dinners, get-togethers or classes on how to barbecue like Argentines and Uruguayans, the house is in a secret corner of the bustling Vila Madalena. All occasions are marked with a day/time and revolve around the parrilla called La Poderoza, which roasts all the meat. To start, the restaurant suggests dinner or lunch (R$ 364). For those who already know the place or want to dare for the first time, there is the option of a special Wagyu dinner (R$549) or the edition with Bodega Septima wine (R$414). There are still places for experiences in April or early May.

All reservations must be made via the Rincon website. Rua Madalena, 69, west zone. @rincon_escondido_parrilla

Fogo Steakhouse

Decorated in woody tones, the main room of the house has a showcase of meats in the dry aged maturation process. The chef’s suggestion is a cut wrapped in butter for 30 days and then grilled with herbs, rosemary, coarse salt and garlic. This is the butter ancho (R$ 144) which weighs, on average, 300 g. To share with up to three people, the alternative is the parrilla do Fogo (R$ 438), served on an iron plate with picanha, dry aged meat, flat iron and Tuscan sausage, accompanied by biro-biro rice, cassava squares and farofa. On Barbecue Day, it will offer a dinner paired with selected meats and Portuguese wines for R$299.

Rua Itatupã, 18 – Morumbi, west zone. Tel. (11) 3542-2261. @fogosteakhose

Lolla Meets Fire

With large windows facing the street and a sophisticated atmosphere, the restaurant is located in Itaim Bibi and serves red meat and seafood parrillas. Octopus, prawns, squid and mussels come together on the grill at Parrilla do Mar (R$ 138 individual). While the aged beef New York Strip Steak can be served separately (R$ 119, with 350 g) or in its own sauce with butter (R$ 159). To celebrate Barbecue Day, the restaurant also suggests dry aged meat (porterhouse or prime rib), with butter sauce, potatoes au gratin with gorgonzola cream and a glass of Maria Maria wine (R$ 337).

Rua Manuel Guedes, 545, Itaim Bibi, west zone. Tel. (11) 3624-8142. @lollameetsfire

El Tranvía

Opened in 1997 in a mansion in Santa Cecília, the location prepares meat on a wood-burning stove, following the Uruguayan tradition. The best-ordered ones are the ancho steak, the chorizo ​​and the empty steak — all of which cost R$168 in a size for two people. Accompanying the cuts are suggestions such as biro-biro rice (R$ 33) and soufflé potatoes (R$ 38), both in portions to share. The matambrito, taken from the pork ribs, is an appetizer tip, served with chimichurri, for R$54. There is a branch in Itaim Bibi.

R. Cons. Brotero, 903, Santa Cecília, central region, tel. (11) 3664-8313, @eltranvia

Uru Mar & Parrilla

Opened five years ago, the Uruguayan restaurant serves meat and seafood dishes. The large white and blue mansion that takes over an entire block is an inviting place for romantic dates, a walk with the family or even lunch with friends. The house displays, right at the entrance, its large cellar, which contains more than 1,500 wines.

R. Emília Marengo, 109, Vila Regente Feijó, eastern region, tel. (11) 2308-9499, @urumaryparrilla