Mescla is consistent in offering original creativity with the look of a neighborhood restaurant

Creativity is one of the great hallmarks of chefs involved in haute cuisine and starred restaurants. In São Paulo, part of the expectation of those who go to places like the award-winning DOM, Evvai and Maní is to be surprised by unexpected combinations and flavors (in addition to the luxurious service and high prices that come with it).

This is not necessarily what one expects when seeing a garage transformed into a very simple small restaurant in a region of industrial warehouses like Barra Funda. But Mescla is consistent in delivering inspired and surprising original food, even if it looks like a neighborhood pê-efe, with metal dishes and without much pomp.

Bolivian Checho González’s house was established shortly before the pandemic with a focus on mixing Latin American references crossed with European, Asian and African influences. It seems bold, but it’s an indication that there aren’t many limits to the creativity offered there, and almost everything works well

With signature food and a menu that changes frequently, he manages to surprise with innovative, quality preparations at affordable prices.

Dishes served with the idea of ​​being shared by the entire table were one of the focuses shortly after the opening, but ended up becoming more established as starters – but are still an area for exploring new recipes.

If at the restaurant’s debut one of the surprises was the combination of squid and chicken hearts, now there is a dish of stuffed squid (R$39), which comes breaded with raw ham and mushrooms on toasted brioche with mayonnaise and vinaigrette. It’s crunchy, it’s soft and it balances the different flavors well. Other good options to start with are the lentil dumplings (R$31), like a reinterpretation of falafel, and the breaded fish (R$36).

Then, every day there is a new “mesclinha” dish on offer at lunch. On a visit at the end of March, it was an excellent chicken with peanut sauce (R$41), with a delicate and interesting seasoning that delivers this mix of influences well. With two cooked thighs, it comes with golden potatoes, roasted corn and a red onion salad that makes it more refreshing.

But there are also a series of dish options with a more permanent presence on the menu. Roasted pirarucu (R$64) is a less common fish preparation in the city. It manages to win over when served with beans, vinaigrette and grilled bitter leaves. Unexpected and very interesting combination.

The pork ribs (R$57) are not exactly a house invention, but they are served very tender and with great seasoning, with black-eyed peas, plantains, tomatoes and potatoes.

And the shrimp rice (R$68) is described almost as a reinterpretation of a bobó, with cassava cream and palm oil, but it is completely different. It has a light and balanced broth, with a strong flavor of vegetables, as well as tender prawns and very soft pieces of squid.

The creative identity also appears in the desserts (even if there are only two). The chocolate mousse (R$20) is offered with this simple name, but features a preparation that includes mango caramel, passion fruit and cashew nut farofa. And to reinforce Latin American ties there is tres leches (R$ 20), a very common sweet in the rest of the continent that comes with a white cupcake dipped in a pool of very refreshing ice-cold milk, a spoonful of excellent dulce de leche and zest. of lemon.

Constantly changing, Mescla does its part well by presenting new flavors with simplicity.