Daniel Buarque
The refined and discreet atmosphere, the attentive service and the menu with international ingredients and high-end wines make it clear that, despite the wood-burning stove and barbecue, this is not a generic country food restaurant.
At Refúgio, bean soup (R$32), creamy pamonha (R$47) and rice balls (R$32) are all popular, but are overshadowed by more elaborate dishes. For example, there is a raw zucchini salad with pumpkin, Sicilian lemon and basil (R$38) and squid vinaigrette with butter beans (R$57).
Squid vinaigrette from the Refúgio restaurant, in Jardins –
A great way to start a meal there is with the grilled cauliflower served with curd, coriander oil and lemon zest (R$42). The dish is small but very balanced. The vegetable arrives charred by the grill and has a striking texture, with a tender point, but it calls for a strong bite.
The mix of influences from the countryside and Europe is very evident in the preparation of the duck (R$124). The breast of the bird is prepared on the barbecue and is served in an iron pan, accompanied by a sweet and sour sauce and crispy potatoes browned in their own fat. It is served just right, very red, with dry fat and very tender meat. It has a smoky touch that sets it apart from French magrets.
One of the restaurant’s most popular dishes comes out of the wood-fired oven: a lamb shoulder with canjiquinha (R$116). The meat is served after a long cooking, tender and boneless, and arrives immersed in a delicate and unctuous broth, with roasted red peppers and cherry tomatoes. It is tasty, but mild, and could use a little more seasoning.
The canjiquinha is creamy, you can taste the pieces of corn and it is very well seasoned, with a buttery touch (although the Cuesta Azul cheese described on the menu doesn’t appear much). The portion would be enough for two people, which makes the price more affordable.
The desserts also reflect the mix of gastronomic references. The highlight is the ambrosia (R$29), a dulce de leche with eggs prepared on a wood-fired stove and served with orange confit ice cream and spices. Less sweet than you might imagine, it combines well with the contrasting flavors that complement each other.
Source: Folha
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