Shihoma Deli has Italian food with a relaxed atmosphere and more affordable prices

There are two challenges in the way of a customer who wants to follow the recommendation of this Folha’s Best of São Paulo guide and go to the award-winning Italian restaurant in the city. First are the long lines that regularly form in front of Shihoma, in Vila Madalena. Without booking in advance, it can be difficult to get a table. The second are the prices on the menu, with small appetizers costing more than R$50 and pasta dishes that can cost more than R$100.

The good news for those who are discouraged by this diagnosis is that the popularity of the restaurant has led to the recent opening of a “pocket” version of the restaurant just 350 meters from the original address. Shihoma Deli is a more affordable and unpretentious version of the restaurant, which appears to be an attractive alternative – and in some ways it may even surpass the original restaurant, especially for those who value simplicity well executed.

With an even more casual style than the official establishment, the Deli operates as a café, delicatessen, store selling ingredients and fresh pasta, and especially as a restaurant. The menu offered is a leaner version of Shihoma’s menu, with fewer options, frequent changes, and less expensive dishes (although not cheap), but with a quality similar to that which led to the award given to the original establishment.

At any time of the day you can drink coffee, tea and kombucha and eat sandwiches like mortadella (R$46) or porchetta (R$55).

Lunch is served from noon to 4:30 pm, and there are more than a dozen very attractive starter options, such as selections of cheeses, salami and vegetables.

The ricotta & pistachio portion (R$19) is the cheapest option, and it’s worth it for the fresh, creamy and delicate cheese, which will put an end to any prejudices that someone might have against it (the pistachio is barely present, but that doesn’t take away from the charm of the dish). To accompany it, there are very fresh and warm breads made in-house.

The lunch menu is organized in the Italian style, with “primi” bringing together two pasta options and lighter dishes and “secondi” with five meat options and more complete preparations.

The only fixed “primi” is a delicious parmigiana melanzane (R$59), served in a style reminiscent of a steak, it comes breaded and crispy, with a light smoky touch, and a full-bodied and tasty tomato sauce, as well as stracciatella cheese, an exceptional combination.

On the day of our visit, there were two pasta options: gnocchi with truffles (R$82) and orecchiette (R$62), fresh pasta with sautéed cauliflower, peas, tulha cheese, raisins, toasted almonds and anchovies. The latter was very well served and each bite was a surprise with new textures and flavors, with the umami of the anchovies providing a nice balance.

Among the meats, there are options such as a muscle cooked in red wine accompanied by polenta (R$62) and a grilled pork loin (R$59).

The desserts at Shihoma Deli are a real eye-catcher, displayed on the café counter. The red fruit crostata (R$32) was a lovely way to end the meal. A thin, crispy pastry that crumbled when you touched it, generously filled with fruit cream and topped with whipped cream.

Shihoma has changed the quality level of high-quality fresh pasta served without much fanfare, the pocket version of the restaurant manages to offer food with the same quality and in a simpler and more accessible way.