Opinion

Restaurant Tangará Jean-Georges wants to seduce the Michelin with a tasting menu of up to R$675

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After losing its Michelin star in the last edition of the guide, in 2020, the restaurant Tangará Jean-Georges wants to seduce the ranking judges and win them back. For this, it has a new executive chef, Filipe Rizzato, and a revamped menu that prioritizes seasonality and local ingredients.

Inaugurated in 2017, the house is on the ground floor of Palácio Tangará, a luxurious five-star hotel located in the middle of the Atlantic Forest of Burle Marx Park, in the south of São Paulo.

In addition, it is the first South American cuisine under the brand of celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. French from Alsace, he gives his signature to more than 40 restaurants around the world, in countries such as France, China, England and Japan. But the jewel of his small empire is in New York — a restaurant that, like the Brazilian house, is named after the chef.​

Housed in Trump Tower, Jean-Georges has two Michelin stars and features cuisine that blends French, Asian and American influences.

Not by chance, this formula appears in the business that bears his name here in Brazil. But, since the beginning of the year, the menu has also featured Rizzato’s signature dishes, which share space with creations made in collaboration with Vongerichten’s team and with French classics. The idea is to offer seasonal menus, prioritizing even more local and seasonal ingredients. In other words, the house wants to give that Brazilian flavor.

In the sober gray-toned lounge, the wealthy clientele is divided between the main lounge, the balcony and the “chef’s table”, where it is possible to order a reliable menu, defined by the kitchen according to the ingredients of the day. . In other spaces, you can order à la carte dishes or tasting menus.

The vegetarian version, which can be vegan, has five stages and costs R$ 410. The one with animal protein has six courses and costs R$ 675. A few hundred reais are spent more to pair the meal with wines chosen by the sommelier at home.

Working since September as executive chef at Palácio Tangará, Rizzato comments that all recipes have precise technical data sheets to maintain Vongerichten’s quality standard.

“That’s why we can repeat the same pattern of the brioche with candied yolk and caviar from New York, for example”, he says. “If you look, it’s all exactly the same.” Available from the à la carte menu, the recipe costs R$345.

Another dish from the New York house found here is sea bass with a spice crust, sweet and sour jus and seasonal vegetables (R$172). “I don’t think this one will ever come out. At Tangará Jean-Georges, without a doubt, sea bass is the ‘signature dish’ [prato de assinatura].”

Even with all the chef’s quality control, there is room for creations. If Vongerichten is known for the combination of France and Asia, Rizzato defines himself as a purist. “I always try to maintain the purity of the ingredient,” he explains. “Of course, technique is important, but for me, it’s necessary to keep the product clear inside the plate. I really like differences in textures, temperatures. It’s simple, but with technique”, he says.

The Brazilian chef’s brand appears in dishes such as grilled scallops with cauliflower puree, quinoa and hazelnut farofa, Parma ham and saffron gastric (R$152) or grilled foie gras served with caramelized mango (R$165). ). All tested and approved by a Vongerichten representative.

With the news, one of the goals of the house is to return to the Brazilian constellation of the Michelin Guide. “This, in fact, is a recognition, a consequence. But it is, yes, within the goals of the objectives”, says the chef.

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