Opinion

Chefs cross the Rio-SP air bridge and open restaurants and bars in both capitals

by

Nathalia Durval

The Rio-São Paulo air bridge is increasingly less distant. At least, when it comes to gastronomy.

In recent years, restaurants and bars from Rio de Janeiro have arrived in the capital of São Paulo, bringing a bohemian atmosphere and draft beer — served in a smaller glass. On the other hand, chefs from São Paulo have taken different cuisines to the neighboring state. Discover some of these addresses below to enjoy in both cities.

Dishes served at Mii Greek Restaurant

Dishes served at the Greek restaurant Mii, which moved from São Paulo to Rio –
Neuton Araujo/Disclosure

FROM RIO TO SP

Princess Bar

The bar, run by chef Pedro de Artagão, gained a branch in Itaim Bibi last month. The decoration of Portuguese tiles and warehouse shelves, as well as the sidewalk chairs, were reproduced here. The menu features classics from Rio’s bohemia and features the most requested dishes from Leblon, such as filet parmigiana with ruddy potatoes, egg farofa, rice and beans (R$ 192 to share). To drink, there are beats, drinks and draft beer. Artagão also heads Galeto Rainha and Taberna Rainha, opened this year in the same neighborhood.
R. Pedroso Alvarenga, 909, Itaim Bibi, western region, @boteco_princesa


Fathom

Itaim Bibi became Rio’s stronghold in São Paulo. The house is a descendant of Bracarense, a bar created in the 1960s, founded by the same family. The menu recreates some iconic recipes from Rio, such as the cod cake à la Dondon Ramos (R$ 60 per portion) and the seafood feijoada (R$ 89), served in a bowl and accompanied by rice and palm farofa . To drink, the suggestion is the clear Brahma draft beer (R$ 8.90).
R. Dr. Renato Paes de Barros, 908, Itaim Bibi, western region, tel. (11) 3045-7913, @bracabar


Belmonte Bar

One of the most traditional bars in Rio, operating since 1952, has gained a branch in São Paulo with a more chic look, in the bohemian Vila Madalena. There, the highlight is the draft beer and feijoada, which costs R$175 and serves two people.
R. Girassol, 384, Vila Madalena, west region, @boteco_belmonte


Canton

The chifa food house, which combines Peruvian and Chinese cuisine, emerged as a dark kitchen in Rio before landing in two units in São Paulo. The red decoration full of Chinese objects is the stage for tasting recipes such as the special Peking duck (R$ 182), prepared with roast duck with teriyaki sauce accompanied by pancakes, sesame mayonnaise, cucumber salad with garlic sauce and spicy aïoli.
Av. Juriti, 587, Moema, southern region, tel. (11) 5051-9755, @canton.br


Chez Claude

French chef Claude Troisgros opened the doors of the São Paulo unit of his signature restaurant in 2020, in the Le Quartier complex, which he commands in Itaim Bibi. It reproduces classic dishes, but also features exclusive dishes on the menu, such as ribs braised for five hours, served with aligot and jillo confit pickles, for R$136.
R. Professor Tamandaré Toledo, 25, Itaim Bibi, western region, @chez.claudesp


Galeto Rainha

Opened this year, it specializes in galeto, popular in Rio. It is prepared over the coals for R$96 and can be accompanied by crazy rice (up to R$36) and egg farofa with banana (up to R$42). The menu features classic bar dishes, such as pork belly cracklings (R$42) and bean broth (R$28).
R. Clodomiro Amazonas, 202, Itaim Bibi, western region


Gluttony Gluttony

Founded 40 years ago, the Rio restaurant has three units in the capital of São Paulo. The most recent one opened its doors this month at the Parque da Cidade shopping mall. The menu is varied and includes dishes such as filet mignon with fettuccine (R$72), chicken with pesto (R$52) and cold potato salad (R$52). In Rio de Janeiro, there are eight units.
Shopping Parque da Cidade – av. of the United Nations, 14,401, Chácara Santo Antônio, southern region, @gulagularestaurante


Gurumê

The Japanese restaurant, with eight units in Rio, gained a home in Vila Madalena in September. Some dishes and drinks are exclusive to the São Paulo menu, such as the crayfish sushi duo (R$59). The menu offers suggestions for pokes, sushi and hot dishes.
R. Natingui, 1,536, Vila Madalena, western region, @gurumesaopaulo_oficial

Sushi selection at Gurumê restaurant

Sushi and sashimi from the Rio restaurant Gurumê –
Léo Braga/Disclosure


Momo Gelato

The Rio ice cream chain arrived on Oscar Freire Street in a large house on the corner. In addition to the cones, the brand is known for its ice cream pies. One of the new flavors has a base of Speculoos biscuits, banana and milk gelatos, topped with banana and cinnamon jam. A slice costs R$24.
R. Oscar Freire, 168, Jardim Paulista, west region, @momogelateria


Nema

Badalada, the artisanal bakery known for its natural fermentation breads and sliced ​​pizzas, arrived in Pinheiros and Santo André. The flagship product is sourdough, made with dough that rests for 18 hours, offered in versions such as the classic, for R$23.
R. Mateus Grou, 191, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 93277-5332, @nemapadaria


Queen Tavern

It is dedicated to Spanish and Portuguese cuisine. The São Paulo version, opened last month, serves recipes such as jamón croqueta (R$ 26), sweet pistol shrimp rice (R$ 160) and Spanish-style cod (R$ 182), with tomato sauce, peppers, olives , capers and punched potatoes.
R. Jerônimo da Veiga, 129, Itaim Bibi, western region, @taberna.rainha


TT Burger

Chef Thomas Troisgros, son of Claude Troisgros, created the artisanal burger restaurant in 2013 and brought the chain to São Paulo last year. With units in Itaim Bibi and Pinheiros, it prepares burgers with a chef’s touch, such as the truffled TT, which contains 180 g of angus blend, melted semi-cured cheese, caramelized onions in balsamic and white truffle mayonnaise (R$ 65.90 with fries).
Av. Pedroso de Morais, 1,081, Pinheiros, western region, @ttburger


FROM SP TO RIO

Santiago Winery

Overlooking the Tijuca lagoon, the house serves Iberian cuisine. One of the highlights is the seafood fish counter, with cold options such as oysters, scallops in the shell and marinated salmon. To accompany, a selection of wines from Spain and Portugal.
Shopping Village Mall – av. das Américas, 3,900, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @adegasantiago


Braz

The pizzeria chain took its high-edge, filling style to Rio, in the Jardim Botânico region. The flavors are the same, like 50 Top (R$ 132), with Italian tomato sauce and five cheeses: fior di latte Bonfiore, Catupiry, cuesta azul Pardinho, buffalo ricotta Almeida Prado and tulha from Fazenda Atalaia.
R. Maria Angélica, 129, Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro, @brazpizzaria


Bullguer

The artisanal hamburger restaurant from São Paulo, one of those responsible for popularizing the smash burger style, arrived on Rio de Janeiro with two units, in Tijuca and Botafogo. The sandwiches, made with Angus beef and artisan bread, start at R$23.
Shopping Tijuca – av. Maracanã, Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @bullguer


Caramel Confectionery

Pastry chef Pedro Frade took his desserts to the capital of Rio de Janeiro, with a store opened this year. In the window, sweets such as caramel and raspberry (R$ 34), a caramel mousse filled with raspberry syrup, accompanied by caramel whipped cream, are displayed. A popular choice is the creamy 63% chocolate entremet topped with pistachio whipped cream (R$34).
Barra Shopping – av. das Américas, 4,666, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @confeitaria.caramelobr

Chocolate and caramel cake, from Confeitaria Caramelo

Chocolate and caramel cake, from Confeitaria Caramelo –
Disclosure

Dumbo Finest Ice Cream

The ice cream served in taiyaki, a sweet fish-shaped pastry, was a hit on Oscar Freire Street and gained a kiosk in Rio this year. The dough is soft and comes out of the machine in flavors such as vanilla, strawberry and chocolate for different toppings.
Barra Shopping – av. das Américas, 4,666, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @dumboicecream


Gero

Founded 30 years ago, the luxurious restaurant is also present in Rio, at the Fasano hotel, close to Ipanema beach. The menu includes classics of Italian cuisine, such as risottos, pasta, meat and fish. Among the suggestions, the ravioli can be stuffed with veal and topped with mushroom sauce, for R$148.
Av. Vieira Souto, 80, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, @fasano


Handz

Chef Rodrigo Einsfeld, who participated in Masterchef Profissionais, made his debut in Rio last year with his restaurant, which began as a delivery service. The menu is diverse and features new features such as peach palm and zucchini spaghetti with pesto with burrata cream and tuna cubes (R$86).
Barra Shopping – av. das Américas, 4,666, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @handzbyrodrigoeinsfeld


Kitchen

The restaurant brought to Rio a type of cuisine already consolidated in São Paulo, Japanese. In Leblon since 2022, the restaurant lists cold and hot starters, sashimi, temakis, rolls, tempurás, hot and combined dishes on the menu.
Av. Afrânio de Melo Franco, 290, Leblon, Rio de Janeiro, @restaurantekitchin


Mii

After becoming popular in the Vila Anália complex, the Greek restaurant gained a branch in Rio, opening this year. The room, in white and blue, is inspired by Mykonos and hosts live music. Typical dishes include moussaka (R$69.90), made with eggplant, potatoes, meat ragu, pomodoro sauce, yogurt cream and béchamel; and souvlaky (R$ 89.90), meat skewer with yogurt paste and pita bread.
Barra Shopping – av. das Américas, 4,666, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @miirestaurante


Poor Juan

Inspired by typical Argentine houses, the restaurant opened 20 years ago has an address in Barra da Tijuca. The restaurant is famous for its parrilla, which produces prime cuts of meat, such as the tomahawk (R$ 388; 950 g), served with two sides, to share.
Shopping VillageMall -av. das Américas, 3,900, Barra da Tijuca, @restaurantepobrejuan


Restaurant

In the year that marks a decade, restaurateur Ricardo Trevisani’s Italian cuisine gained a branch in Rio in May. Chef Henrique Schoendorfer’s menu features pasta such as lasagna with veal ragu, grana padano and truffles (R$ 155).
Shopping VillageMall – av. das Américas, 3,900, Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, @ristorantino_


Source: Folha

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