It’s São Paulo, but it’s not either. With peaks of up to 1,200 meters in altitude, the Serra da Cantareira has a good share within the northern part of São Paulo — but it also spreads out to other cities, more specifically Guarulhos, Mairiporã and Caieiras.
The name, historians say, came from the large concentration of streams and springs. The drovers, who used the mountain as a route, took the opportunity to fill their clay jars, called cântaros, there.
The mountain range is home to one of the largest urban forests in the world, with 7.9 hectares of Atlantic Forest preserved within the Cantareira State Park — one hectare is equivalent to 10,000 m², or little more than the area of a football field. Surrounded by greenery, the region remained a remote corner of the city, occupied only by farms and farms, until very recently.
The landscape was almost rural when, in 1978, Moacyr Archanjo and his wife, Iracema, opened the demolition material deposit O Velhão. There was no running water, electricity or asphalt.
“As there was nothing nearby, we started making food for the employees, and some customers ended up asking to eat with us. That’s how we opened the As Véia restaurant”, says Iracema.
At 79 years old, she has been running the business since her husband died in 2000. Today, with 650 seats, the complex serves lunch daily and, at night, works as a pizzeria and brewery.
Starting in the 1990s, Cantareira began to change — and gained new momentum during the pandemic, with the opening of a new wave of restaurants and cafes, attracted by the mountain climate. Cut by narrow, tree-lined roads, the mountain range has become an important hub for São Paulo residents to eat and drink.
Check out, below, 12 addresses that are worth a trip to the mountains, which is right there. And don’t forget to try the local drinks: Langerwisch beer and Engenho Cantareira cachaça.
Two important caveats. Before getting in the car, check the opening hours, because some establishments do not work during the week. And use a geolocation app, as street numbering is quite confusing.
The Veins
It’s a classic, it preceded the novelties of the mountain range. The old refectory of the O Velhão warehouse became a complex with a restaurant, brewery, pizzeria, shops and a bar dedicated to pool and board games. On weekends, home-cooked lunch, served as a buffet, costs R$62 per person. On Sundays and holidays, breakfast is available from 8 am to 11 am, at R$40 per person.
str. Mayor Dr. Sarkis Tellian, 3000, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-2084, velhao.com.br
Manacá coffee
The little house with blue windows serves specialty coffees in different extraction methods. The exotic mandarin espresso, which features iced coffee and layered tangerine juice, costs R$16 and comes with slices of cake (R$11) or blueberry pie (R$18).
Av. Councilor Belarmino Pereira de Carvalho, 9800, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 96472-3374, Instagram @cafe_manaca
Cantareira Steakhouse Deck
On the deck overlooking the mountains, the house specializes in roasted meats. The smoked rib with rice, vinaigrette and farofa, served only on Saturdays and Sundays, costs R$199.90 and is enough for two. From 6pm, the hamburger menu comes into play. In 300 ml glasses, Langerwisch draft beer costs R$ 14.90.
Av. das Palmeiras, 3000, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-1053, Instagram @deck_cantareira
Border Roasts & Empanadas
Born in Santana do Livramento, on the Rio Grande do Sul border with Uruguay, Guto Ziani reveres the gastronomy of Rio Grande do Sul in his house, complete with a themed soundtrack. To accompany the roasted ancho na parrilla (R$89.90) with rustic sweet potato (R$13.90), he has Fronteiriço golden ale beer (R$27.90, 600 ml). The chivito, a typical Uruguayan open sandwich, costs R$49.90 and comes with potato chips.
Av. José Gianesella, 500, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 94478-2077, fronteirico.com.br
Fruit and Cream
Born as an ice cream shop, the place grew into a complex dedicated to Italian cuisine, with a pastry shop, focaccias menu and restaurant. Gelatos such as the Italian cassata, based on ricotta, almonds and chocolate, come in three sizes, from R$15 to R$28. Daily, it serves hearty breakfast combos (R$98 for two).
Av. José Gianesella, 500, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-3124, fruttaecrema.com.br
Jacques Café
The terrace overlooking the mountains reveals one of the most beautiful views of Cantareira. Café da Serra, with milk, dulce de leche and paçoca (R$ 13), can accompany lucrécia bread, toasted on the griddle, with cream cheese and mozzarella (R$ 12). Waffles, crepes, omelets, pasta and soups also make up the menu.
Av. Serra da Cantareira, 11, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-1225, Instagram @jacques.cafe
Core Bakery and Coffee
The artisan breads baked by Marcos Carnero are just one of the attractions of the place, which, from Wednesday to Sunday, also serves snacks and broths in a tree-lined backyard. The place also has coffee in a colander, at R$5, and a grain bread sandwich with ham, cheese, grilled eggplant and homemade tomato sauce (R$30). From Friday to Sunday, breakfast is served.
Av. das Palmeiras, 2589, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 93342-9609, Instagram @miolopadariacafe
Orbafbier Garden
The bar works in a container, surrounded by tables arranged in the open air — among the craft beers on ten taps, there are own creations and those of partners. Served in 500 ml glasses, they cost from R$13 to R$32. On the menu signed by chef Pedro Marchelli, there are snacks such as a barley ball filled with gorgonzola, at R$26, with eight units. On Saturdays with a full moon, starting at 6 pm, the Luau no Garden is packed with live music.
Av. das Palmeiras, 300, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 91359-0909, Instagram @orbafbiergarden
Well of course!
The Vila Madalena restaurant branch works with the same menu of Portuguese specialties, such as cod à gomes de sá (R$197 for two). It promotes live fado nights and, on weekends, serves breakfast with Portuguese bread and pastel de nata (R$43 per person).
Av. Councilor Belarmino Pereira de Carvalho, 8018, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-3110 and 4485-0245, Instagram @orapoisrestaurante
Sacho Restaurant & Temaki
The clientele can choose the type of service. À la carte, temaki from R$19.90, yakissoba from R$21.90 and combinations from R$39.90, with 20 pieces. Whoever opts for the full carvery pays R$99.90 per person — for lunch from Monday to Friday, the executive carvery, for two, costs R$139.90.
Av. Jose Gianesella, 500, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-4765, Instagram @temakeriasacho
Tasquinha da Serra
Danilo Ribeiro and Mafalda Oliveira are of Portuguese descent and serve classic recipes, such as bacalhau à lagareiro (R$179 for two). The Porto-style francesinha snack (R$48), with steak, chorizo, ham and cheese, is exclusively on Fridays.
Av. das Palmeiras, 3000, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 99133-0636, Instagram @tasquinhadaserra
Tuttonino Pizza Bar
The house ferments the pizza dough for 50 hours before putting the discs in the oven. From the special toppings section, Pepperoni Rock carries tomato sauce, pepperoni, mozzarella, fresh basil, fried garlic and cherry tomatoes. The order costs R$ 62.90, with eight slices. Produced in the mountains, Langerwisch Pilsner craft beer is sold at R$ 28 in a 600 ml bottle.
Av. José Gianesella, 500, Mairiporã, tel. (11) 4485-4575, Instagram @tuttoninopizzabar
I am currently a news writer for News Bulletin247 where I mostly cover sports news. I have always been interested in writing and it is something I am very passionate about. In my spare time, I enjoy reading and spending time with my family and friends.
