In the clandestine, duck in tucupi viras guioza in Brazilian kitchen made with original look

A first look at the clandestine menu shows that chef, Bel Coelho, plays with Brazilian ingredients in preparations from other corners of the world. The okra turns Kimchi, the bean-beans becomes homus, the duck in the tucupi becomes guioza, the jabuticaba will stop at the crème brûlèe. It causes a certain strangeness – but also makes you want to start experimenting.

In revenues there are references to Brazilian biomes, from the Amazon to Caatinga. Regional ingredients that do not necessarily appear as protagonists. Sometimes they arise in details that make the experience thought -provoking.

The result is a technically mature kitchen that delivers flavors that we only eat there and complete dishes-even that the menu operates in the portions system to share, which has recently popularized.

The duck guioza with tucupi (R $ 65, four units) was the elected to start the meal in this style, to share.

I wanted to take the broth to the spices, with infused jambu and Brazilian peppers, so good. A portion of natural fermentation bread ($ 6) helped clean what was on the plate. The house is a focaccia, which arrived warm.

Following, the option was for the Table A.mar (R $ 65), consisting of a tasty tuna salami, smoked fish (on the day, it was mackerel), karasumi (dry, dried and pressed fish eggs) and pickled squid. With well -marked flavors, they were the ideal counterpoint to accompany a cold beer.

Among the main dishes, the first was Tortelli (R $ 69), a firm mass that involves corner cheese, smooth flavor and soft texture. It comes with a onion broth that adds umami and, to finish, mushrooms and maratimba cheese chips. Slightly sweet, it is made with cow and sheep milks.

But the most surprised request was the pork belly (R $ 84). It is glaced with black tucupi (a reduction in yellow tucupi, which becomes denser and more concentrated) and served with lightweight, light and tasty beans. A charming maxixe pickles completes the plate.

To go to class, the concept of sharing works well, because the dishes do not need complement. That is, you don’t have to break your head making combinations – and you still risk making a mistake (or hungry).

To go to two, it is worth knowing that dividing two starters, two main and a dessert may not be enough. Nor to kill hunger or to satisfy curiosity about the creations of the chef, who delivers Brazilian kitchen made with research, technique and original and careful look.

Dessert also did not disappoint

The French who forgive us, but the clandestine version of Crème Brûlée (R $ 39) is difficult to overcome. The recipe gets a cheese base, in honor of the miners, cerrado vanilla and a shiny jabuticaba syrup. To accompany, special coffee, small producer, strained on the table.