Opinion

Beautiful, Confectionery Colombo is a wide-ticker in Rio

by

Cleo Guimarães

Colombo Confectionery

  • Where R. Gonçalves Dias, 32, Centro, @Confeitariacolombo

From the sights of downtown Rio, the Colombo Confectionery is perhaps one of the most beautiful. Belle Époque Carioca symbol and 131 years ago, she is impressed by her halls under the art Nouveau skill, Belgian mirrors, rosewood furniture and Carrara marble counters. Customers are enchanted by what the view achieves, in all decorative and architectural details.

In this scenario wonder, however, the gastronomic experience is in the background. If it has been a point of intellectuals such as Machado de Assis and Heitor Villa-Lobos, today is a wide-touristy place, which even has photos of professionals hired to click visitors (each portrait comes between $ 30 and $ 40, to be negotiated).

View of the traditional Colombo Confectionery Hall, in downtown Rio de Janeiro, in 2008 –
Rafael Andrade/Folhapress/Rafael Andrade/Folhapress

The record begins to fall when, after a while in line (there is always), the dine is the table and comes across ketchup mequetrefes, separately packed paper napkins and butter in individual portions, such as in the medium hotel breakfast buffets. It would be more consistent to have well -presented spices, cutlery and elegant crockery, isn’t it?

But tourists seem not to care about it. Not even with the low quality of what is served. It is paid expensive to eat the salty of breaded shrimp with cheese (R $ 40), kibe-shaped massaroca that grossly involves a single shrimp.

A bomb, which preceded the classic of the house: the cream thigh (R $ 29), breaded thigh and overcox with a slight film of cream under the dismantous shell. That’s all. There is no detail that makes the delicacy, already unknown, special. He lay on fame, what happens to Colombo as a whole.

Rio’s material and immaterial cultural heritage, the confectionery can take advantage of the morality it has, and gives the impression of not striving minimally to deliver good dishes, except for desserts, specialty of executive chef Thiago Faro.

A cup of coffee expressed in a white saucer with a blue logo, next to a sweet plate, possibly a cream pastry, which has a golden crust and a creamy filling. The bottom is a light wooden table and there is a white napkin and cutlery next to the plate.

Pastel of cream and coffee served at Confectionery Colombo, in Rio de Janeiro –
Wagner Pinheiro/Disclosure

The chocolate and cherry pie with whipped cream (R $ 26.50) was good, wet and the few cost-effective options, as well as the banana passion fruit tartlet, crispy pasta (R $ 24).
Sweets aside, Colombo is consistently bad in savory, sandwiches and main ones. They give the impression of being done without the slightest care, in a hurry (you have to “run the table”).

Chicken salpicão, extortiones R $ 74, even indignant. Far from being a salad, it is a creamy paste, such as those that stuff the sandwiches sold on the beach or in juice houses, one third of the price.

The mincemeat with rice, crumbs with bacon and sausage, egg poché and kale (R $ 82)… Well, about him the waiter must be used to listening to complaints from those who speak Portuguese, since I did not hesitate when I said that my farofa did not come with the pork meat, it was just flour. “Want to return?” I returned.

Another resistance dish, the Petrópolis toast (two slices, butter, jam and ricotta separately, was OK, as well as the turkey -breast club Sandwich ($ 66), the only two orders, as well as the desserts, for which I didn’t feel a bundle when paying the Colombo bill. It wouldn’t come back for them either. It is for the environment, which is really worth it. Go through the walk.

Source: Folha

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