Opinion

Good poorly executed ideas sabotage fresh fish from the yellow fin

by

Priscila Pastre

Yellow fin

  • When R. Francisco Leitão, 266, Pinheiros, West Region
  • Link: https://www.instagram.com/barbatana_amarela/

When you go out to eat seafood in Sao Paulo, you know that the tour will not be exactly cheap. For this reason, it is common to create expectations of a special meal. Even if it is in a simpler environment, as is the case with the yellow fin, now in Pinheiros.

The house moved from Pompeii to Francisco Leitão Street just over two months ago. With tables and chairs of bar and restaurant prices, it works with fresh and quality sea ingredients. But it still has to adjust the service and perform the good ideas of the menu more carefully and carefully.

Grilled tuna on the grill, accompanied by roasted sweet potato, Japanese chard, cherry tomatoes, garlic farofa and port and balsamic wine reduction–
Priscila Pastre/Folhapress

When we arrived, the attendant indicated the table on the side of the house and did not return to deliver the menu. The way was to get up and get it on behalf. Behind us, one comes in and out of the kitchen door with rice, onion and potato bags gave an air of amateurism. An attached hall, with the lights off, conveyed a certain abandonment. But in the menu, the dishes seemed promising.

For the value, the expectation of the entry of Calamari (R $ 80) is that it was well served. However, it arrived on a small dish with more ball potato than lula sauteed. Laded in chipotle sauce, the dish is tasty, but made for those who really like spicy recipes.

Those who prefer to start with a more affordable entrance can choose the croquetas. There are three options: shrimp (R $ 67), Sardine (R $ 49) and Siri (R $ 58).

Mainly, tuna on the grill (R $ 96) is accompanied by roasted sweet potato, Japanese chard with one drop of a port and balsamic wine reduction, three cherry tomatoes and garlic crumbs. A little curd was trying to soften, in vain, the dryness of the plate.

The tomatoes, announced on the menu as confit, were just tomatoes, without any seasoning. The raw vegetables seemed to have passed away from the grill. It was as if the ingredients were placed without care, all on the same dish, just to coexist. Not to result in a preparation that made sense.

Rigatoni with octopus, squid, shrimp, mussel and vôngole (R $ 97) was also proven. The seafood were tasty and at the right point. Too bad that, except for the only mussel in the dish that ended up standing out for being arranged above, his companions were in the middle of so much mass. She, by the way, seemed to have been cooked in advance.

The interesting idea of ​​the suffering (a braised tomato, onion, garlic and pepper) did not work for a preparation error. It arrived with vinaigrette appearance and flavor, cold, on top of Rigatoni.

Dessert, cheesecake (for $ 37). Made for those who like the firmer texture version than creamy and with a thick cookie layer below. The tasty red fruits syrup, with acidity and sweetness, was responsible for bringing delicacy to the candy.

In the end, the experience showed that the yellow fin lack basic adjustments. Care that is entitled to the quality of seafood, the 13%service rate, and the ideas of the menu that can work if they are treated more carefully.


Source: Folha

Bars and restaurantsfoodgastronomic criticismleaf guideSão PauloSeafood

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