Exaggerated borders of soffio make more sense in theory than in practice

After the success of the Neapolitan pizzerias, now the self -enhanced Napolitan contemporary pizzerias come. An additional term that gives that poetic license for the house to let go of some ties and innovate with copyright touches. In the case of Soffi, in Campo Belo, what jumps the most to the eyes is the size of the edges, very wide and high.

Before you sit down, stop to check out the pizza tiller. It is interesting to see the preparation: the round has the slices separate with scissors in place of cutter. It kindly takes care of the elasticity of the mass, without kneading it, and the process is beautiful to see. It is an alternative form to the portfolio, pizza folded to be food with the hands, as in the streets of Naples.

On a visit on a Sunday at 7:30 pm, just before the most intense movement, the waiter answered us quickly. We ordered the entrance and the pizzas, which are individual at once. But it was not expected to send everything together. They sent.

And as we tasted the carpaccio (R $ 42 the smaller portion), watery and bland, covered with arugula and crispy Parmesan, the pizzas cool on the table.

Marguerita arrived as it should be: with naked tomato sauce, fior di latte and basil leaves. Too bad that the fjor di latte, the fresh cow’s milk mozzarella that should reign with its delicate and soft taste, was hard.

Prosciutto pizza and tulha cheese (R $ 78) was the best choice. A pleasurable combination that, besides the raw ham and matured cheese that give it the name, comes with naked tomato sauce, fior di latte and arugula.

In theory, you can understand the house’s bet on the sides. The edges of the Neapolitan pizza are almost a fetish for those who know the process of mass production. It involves the use of a more protein flour, slow fermentation and its own bolement, opening and baking techniques.

But it is worth a thought of the limits to a truly pleasant experience at the table. Even because one of the great attractions of this type of pasta is not weighing. It is getting you out of the Saciae restaurant, but not stuffed.

The exaggeration with the edges, as seen on the day of the visit, induces the diners to a true gastronomic sin: to leave them on the plate.

Calzone Scarola (R $ 69) was also proven. It arrives well stuffed, with naked tomato sauce, fior di latte, Parmesan and a true ride of escarole complemented by olives and capers.

Dessert, tiramissu (R $ 39). The menu says it is the classic version and highlights the fact that it is one of the most famous sweets of Italian cuisine. You expect the original recipe, but what comes is a cream full of cream with an apathetic piece of chocolate cake in the middle.

Serve in a narrower glass at the base signals that there is something wrong out, as the traditional recipe is set in layers. The texture of the cream was more for a whipped cream, without the expected presence of Mascarpone’s silkiness. Only cocoa powder sprinkled on top resembled something of the traditional candy.