The last time the Ukrainian president Volodimir Zelenski She wore a suit was early on the morning of February 24, 2022, when she posted a video announcing military law as Russia began its full -scale invasion, according to Politico.

Since then, Zelenski has been wearing black, gray or khaki pants, boots, sweatshirts and polo decorated with Ukrainian national symbols. In this way he appears malnourished compared to his counterparts. However, this is the question.

“When world leaders see Zelenski in military style, it is a message:” Ukraine is in war, “Politico told Politico, Elvira Gasanova, a designer of the brand Damirli who is one of Zelenski’s features.

“The persistent appeal to wear a suit is de facto a requirement to return to the usual form of political dialogue, which means” enough with war, sit on the table of negotiations “,” Gasanova added.

This was also one of the causes of the White House’s devastating meeting last month.

Meeting with the US president was destined to have a bad development then, thanks to the chair’s alignment Donald Trump with the Russian president Vladimir Putinbut military clothes were something like a red flag for Trump, which we rarely see without the wide Brioni suit and his long red tie unless he is on the golf course.

Zelenski was wearing a Polo blouse made by Gasanova when he arrived at the White House, causing the irony of Trump, who greeted the Ukrainian leader with the phrase: “You’re well -groomed!”

Things got worse at the Oval Office when right -wing journalist Brian Glenn asked: “Why don’t you wear a suit? You are at the highest level of this country’s office and refuse to wear a suit. Do you have a suit? Many Americans have problems with not respecting the dignity of this office. ” “I’ll wear a suit after this war is over,” Zelenski replied. “Maybe someone like yours. Maybe something better, I don’t know. Maybe something cheaper, “Zelenski replied.

This scene led Trump and US Vice President Jay Di Vance to a series of attacks on Zelenski. They accused him of being disrespectful and was not grateful enough for US support. The Ukrainian president was expelled from the White House and Trump frozen the traditions of US weapons and stopped the exchange of information in an attempt to push Kiev to agree in peace talks with Russia.

Initially, Ukraine reacted with shock.

The Ukrainian Foreign Ministry showed hundreds of Ukrainians, who showed Trump their uniforms – soldiers, police, essentials and doctors.

But the message has been sent to Zelenski’s staff to avoid annoying Americans for clothing options.

During the US-Ukrainian talks in Saudi Arabia earlier this month, Ukrainian delegation leader Andri Germak wore an elegant suit instead of his usual costume.

However, Zelenski does not abandon the appearance of variant.

Diplomacy of the wardrobe

Criticism for costume often concerns more than fashion, said Zoya Zvynyatskivska, Ukrainian fashion critic and historian.

“The manipulation of clothing requirements is an act of sovereignty. Trump is a bully politician who does not miss any opportunity to humiliate his opponent, to show him and others his position in the hierarchy, “Zvynyatskivska said.

“To paraphrase Churchill, if our man wore us a tie to avoid public humiliation, he would accept the same humiliation – but with a tie. ‘Oh, I see that you were finally dressed as a man’, Trump would say, “Zvynyatskivska added.

This dynamic can be seen by the only man in the Trump circle for whom the amianic president has no problem wearing baseball t -shirts and hats in the Oval Office – Ilon Musk.

Gasanova said that Zelenski’s style is a commitment that cannot even break for Trump – a demonstration of solidarity with Ukrainian citizens and military fighting against the Russian invasion.

“During the war, the president is not only a politician, but the senior commander of the army and the citizens under military law. The classic suit would be perceived as a removal from the reality of the forehead, “Gasanova said. “And his clothes help him keep people’s attention in the war in Ukraine.”

The suit is a symbol of regularity, ordinary diplomacy and ordinary negotiations, while the state of Ukraine is war.

“The president shows that the war is still going on, that the country is still in war,” Gasanova said.

However, he notes that refusing to comply with costume contracts, Zelenski creates a problem for other leaders.

“The diplomatic world is a world of tradition. And many in Europe and the US would like to see Zelenski in a suit so that looks like everyone else. This would make Ukraine less unique in the field of information and would turn the situation with war into another political conflict. His refusal to wear a suit is a refusal to play with the old rules, “Gasanova added.

Some leaders, such as French President Emmanuel Macron, tasted Zelenski’s style, but were mocked. Others, such as Trump, would not be affected if they chose military costume.

But the message of a leader dressed as his soldiers is strong.

Even Putin imitated Zelenski, wearing a military uniform this month when he visited the Russian troops, who repelled the Ukrainian forces of most of the Kursk they had occupied in last summer’s unexpected counterattack.

Zelenski may also need to meet Trump again at some point. It will be interesting what clothing the Ukrainian president will choose.