Opinion – Marcelo Katsuki: JoJoo Creative Sushi renews Japanese cuisine in Recife

Recife’s gastronomy is always surprising. Whether for the chefs’ creativity in approaching regional cuisine, or for the pleasant restaurants that spring up in wooded backyards, bringing freshness and a pleasant feeling of welcome. But my recent discovery in the capital of Pernambuco was a Japanese restaurant, JoJoo Creative Sushi, which is successful at its new address, in Boa Viagem.

The house of partners João Neto, Gustavo Uchimura, Thyago Mayer, Rodrigo Albuquerque and chef Diego Cysneiros has a relaxed but daring proposal: creatively approaching traditional Japanese cuisine while respecting techniques and ingredients. And Diego, a dedicated and quite talented chef, has been doing the job. From the seemingly simple vegan sushi, which actually hides a detailed preparation, to the wagyu nigiri with foie gras, everything is exquisite, aligning presentation and refined flavor.

We started the night with the crunchy and appetizing shrimp popcorn with Sweet Chilli mayonnaise and massago roe (R$58). Next, we tried the tuna tartar with sweet potato strands and sprouts over ponzu sauce, a delight for the eyes. The contrast of textures shines with the rich flavor of the sauce prepared by the chef.

The soft akami (tuna) sashimi with pork cheek, oyster soy sauce, watermelon teriyaki and aka shiso (also known as Japanese basil) has a beautiful composition and arouses the curiosity of the palate with the use of fruit in the preparation of the sauce, with sublime results.

For those who are not a fan of oysters, like me, the nigiri made with the clam marinated in ponzu and finished with Sicilian lemon zest may surprise you. The oyster is previously steamed with sake, gaining in flavor and texture. Another niguiri potent in flavor is the one made with wagyu, foie gras, dates and the delicious watermelon teriyaki (R$ 80 – 2 units).

Diego didn’t forget about vegans and created a sushi with shari, nori, citrus beetroot, marinated mushroom and toasted asparagus (R$ 40 – 8 units) that is a beauty. The richness of the shari seasoning reminds me of the preparation made by my grandmother and that made my experience even more captivating.

We close the sequence with the tuna zuke topped with tuna tartar with sesame oil, katsuobushi (dried fish zest) finished with togarashi (red pepper powder) and aka shiso.

The dessert brings an unusual but potent combination: chocolate mousse with caramelized chestnuts, sesame paçoca, fleur de sel and molasses of rapadura with mushroom (R$ 36). To eat enjoying each layer of flavor, like the umami imprinted on molasses with the use of the mushroom.

The bar is run by young Luna, who creates fruity yet intense Asian-inspired drinks, such as vanilla-infused vodka, passion fruit concentrate, lime, Cointreau, yuzu and a dash of togarashi. The Gueixa drink (R$26), made with vodka with hibiscus, lemon sherbet with sweet chili, Licor 43, albumin and Tahiti lime is also a hit. The sakes served at the house are from the portfolio of Mega Sake, from São Paulo.

The menu also has a section just for sunomonos, a highly valued item in Recife restaurants and one of my favorite things to go with a drink — and which curiously has little prominence here in SP. One more reason to come back to JoJoo.

JoJoo Creative Sushi – little map here
Av. Conselheiro Aguiar, 802, Boa Viagem, Recife – PE
Reservations: (81) 99621.3466