Samba is the soundtrack of Bexiga’s streets and clubs, which resume programming; see script

Samba is the soundtrack of Bexiga’s streets and clubs, which resume programming;  see script

Circling the first streets of Bexiga, in the central region of São Paulo, is almost like revisiting an old samba scene in the capital. Especially on weekends, when the beats and chords lull the singing and the buzz of the public that circulates there.

The action starts on Friday nights, with the famous Samba da 13, popular name given to the Madeira de Lei group, which for over ten years has been performed on the sidewalk of Rua Treze de Maio, around 507, always on the same day, and that came back on the agenda last week. When the atmosphere heats up, the musicians disappear into the crowd, which invades the streets in an unseasonable Carnival atmosphere.

As the night progresses, the crowd increases. For this reason, it is not uncommon for the police to be called by the neighborhood to clear the road for the passage of vehicles — and the event ends.

That’s because at Bexiga, bars share space with residential houses. Therefore, the liveliest street parties do not invade the night. This is the case of Samba da 13, which starts around 19:00 and usually ends at the height of the audience’s excitement, around 23:00 — a way to leave the group wanting more.

Anyone who wants to continue enjoying a samba can go to the Toca da Capivara bar, at Rua Major Diogo, 865, which is open until 2 am, where a different samba group is performed every day from Thursday to Saturday.

Another option to enjoy during the night is Mundo Pensante, on Rua Treze de Maio, 830. The space is a kind of cultural center with a concert hall, with a schedule of parties and bands. There, the public exchanges the litrão for long neck bottles to enjoy a program with instrumental presentations, samba circles and DJs that highlight rhythms with Brazilian roots.

The wing! Garden, in turn, offers a more intimate atmosphere. A mix of restaurant, thrift store and concert hall, the space has a pleasant garden, which welcomes musicians and parties. This Saturday, the 27th, from 4 pm, a tribute to the singer Elza Soares is scheduled.

In a listed building from the 1920s, Casa Barbosa, on Rui Barbosa Street, promotes parties, performances and concerts of jazz, samba, choro, forró, among other styles, in a relaxed atmosphere. You can keep up with Ala! and go there later, at 9.30 pm, when the venue receives the Samba de Dandara, to exalt the samba women.

Even with so much on offer, Bexiga still hides tours that only the most up-to-date folks know about. This is the case of the samba that takes place on Sundays at a body shop at 574 Rui Barbosa Street, which gathers anonymous and famous people.

The place has no name, but it became known as Samba da Funilaria — and, like the one on 13, it fills the streets and ends when the police arrive.

It’s true that Bexiga also has space for rock music –clubs like Madame and Café Piu Piu are also there-, but samba has been there since the days of Adoniran Barbosa.

If you are going to go out and enjoy the region, use a mask correctly, especially in environments with agglomeration of people, keep your hands sanitized and have your vaccination card up to date.

Bohemia in the Bladder

Allah! garden
a. Rui Barbosa, 658. Instagram @ala.jardim

Barbosa house
r. Rui Barbosa, 559. Instagram @casabarbosabixiga

Bladder Body Shop
a. Rui Barbosa, 574. Instagram @funnelariabixiga

Thinking World
a. Treze de Maio, 830. Instagram @mundopensante

Thirteen’s Samba
a. Treze de Maio, 507. Instagram @sambadatrezebixiga

Capybara Burrow
r. Major Diogo, 865. Instagram @atocadacapivara


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