Restrictions on air travel, the need for isolation and being in more airy places made tourists change their habits. As the Datafolha survey points out, a third of São Paulo citizens say they traveled during the pandemic – and of that group, 71% traveled by car.
Along these lines, getting to know mountain places, with plenty of greenery and easy access by car has become an alternative not only viable, but also safer – and one that remains equally interesting, even with the reopening of the economy.
The region of Caconde (290 km from São Paulo), a city of about 20 thousand inhabitants on the border of the state with Minas, is an option to be explored in the biocultural circuit of Serra da Mantiqueira. The mountainous area, already sought after by those who enjoy adventure sports, also welcomes those looking to relax and enjoy the cuisine.
A three-day itinerary is enough to get to know in depth the city that is bordered by the Pardo river, where the Caconde hydroelectric plant is located, and coffee producers.
where to go
The Mirante de Caconde may be one of the first stops. At 1,195 meters of altitude, with easy access by car, the site in the shape of a four-leaf clover is all mystical and offers a beautiful view of the dam. You can spend quality time enjoying the landscape or meditating. And those who like adventure can hire a free flight from there.
Continuing, the tourist cannot miss visiting the producing families in the region, one of the highlights of the city. Starting with the Bazilli family, who have already served coffee for two popes (Bento 16, in 2007, and Francisco, in 2013) on their visits to Brazil.
A representative of the fifth generation in charge of the business, Roberta Bazilli welcomes tourists to her farm, a 15-acre, 27-thousand-foot coffee plantation, and in it she explains about specialty coffees and their entirely artisanal production. “People come to see how the roast is and taste it, of course”, says the owner, who studied in São Paulo but decided to “escape” from the big city and run the family business amidst nature.
The Fiorini family, which produces colonial wine, also welcome tourists with open arms (and a table set up). Pamela Fiorini, an agronomist and the owner’s daughter, takes visitors on a tour of the grape plantation, explaining details of the harvest and clearing up doubts – and accompanied by Havena, the family’s khan and local mascot.
Meanwhile, Sr Silvano, the father, prepares the hearty tasting of cheeses and wines that takes place at the reception of the farm. All very homey and affectionate. Those interested can buy a bottle of wine (almost directly from the source) and also handmade jams.
About 20 minutes away, in the neighboring municipality of Divinolândia, it is worth visiting the ecological church of São Francisco de Assis. The chapel, surrounded by greenery, was built by residents of a rural neighborhood and is based on recycled objects and demolition wood.
With luck, the visitor will find the smiling Rovílson – a gentleman who has taken care of the church for 12 years and who believes he has been cured of cancer through Saint Francis of Assisi. Since then, as a promise, he buys food for the birds that roam the space.
“It’s about R$100 a month, and I’m smiling when I retire,” says Rovílson. “I knocked on Saint Peter’s door and he said it wasn’t my time, so I always have to say thanks.”
where to eat
One of the most traditional restaurants in the region is Tierra de Fogo, which is part of the Pousada do Xerife complex (more details below). In addition to having typical dishes from the region, such as tilapia, and many options from Minas Gerais cuisine, the place has the advantage of having a breathtaking view, as it is located at an altitude of over a thousand meters. You can eat literally looking at the mountains and plantations in the region.
Another stop that should be included in the itinerary, especially on Sunday lunch, is the Prosa Caipira still and restaurant. The space serves rustic food in a buffet (R$ 43 per person), to eat all you want, and it is a certified still. The idea is to have lunch and visit the production of the drink, which is entirely handcrafted. And, of course, taste the cachaças.
For dinner, the tip is Pizza na Roça – a pizzeria that stands where its name suggests, “na roça”, in a place in the middle of nature in Caconde. There, the owners fill typical Italian pasta with rustic touches, such as Pepperoni pizza from Roça (R$ 70), which uses spicy salami produced in-house, or Pizza na Roça (R$ 64.50), filled with mozzarella, cured sausage, eggs and corn.
To rest
Stay at Pousada do Xerife, located on the side of the highway that connects the cities of Caconde and Divinolândia, in São Paulo. Access is easy, asphalted, and the view is a great attraction, since the inn is a thousand meters high and faces the mountains. From there it is possible to do all tours around the region.
For the experience to be complete, the tip is to stay in one of the suspended chalets, built in wood and with an all-glass wall (R$ 400 per day). It’s as if guests float down the mountain. Right option to wake up with the best view or enjoy the sunset from your bed, with the immensity of Serra da Mantiqueira at your feet.
The journalist traveled at the invitation of the Pousada do Xerife
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