In the deafeningly quiet Upper Town of Nafpaktia, life moves slowly for its 7 permanent residents. In this mountain village of Aitoloakarnania of raw beauty, slow living is reflected everywhere.

THE Dimitris Tsatsanis, a resident of the area, decided 3 years ago to leave Athens for good for a new life, without dizzying speed, pressing demands, piercing noises and incessant chatter. Covid-19 and the lockdown in the winter of 2020 forced him to think about what he really wanted from his life at the age of 48.

The word “Nothing” that came out of his mouth effortlessly, in response to my question about “what he really misses about Athens three years later”, is indicative of his absolute certainty about the decision he made. Our meeting and discussion in Ano Chora during my visit to the region showed the true picture of the life of its people, with its advantages and disadvantages.

The decision for a new life, far from Athens

“The decision to leave Athens for good was a click of the moment. It took the year when Covid-19 locked us in our homes, in the winter of 2020. Instead of returning to Athens with my parents – since they have a house in the village and they leave just before Easter until the end of the summer – I stayed in Ano Country. I wanted a change, but a change of strong emotion like that offered by the village. In Athens, and more specifically in Ilioupoli, I was a graphic designer, an occupation that I forgot here. Now, I’ve been living in Ano Chora for three years and I don’t miss anything from the city.”

Everyday life

“I maintain hotel business all year round. My daily life is very simple. I open the coop for my hens, wait for their eggs, go for walks in the mountains whenever I can. Nutrition and food needs are covered only if I go to the city, because here in the village there is nothing. Once a month we go down to the city, fill the car, then unload in the village and fill the freezers to get us through the month.”

Life in the village of 7 permanent residents

“Ano Chora has always been the capital of the villages of Mountainous Nafpaktia. From then on, the infrastructure it has as a village, even though we are a barren line, are the best of all the other villages. In recent years, the advertising that has been done and the upgrading of accommodation have raised tourism. The village has 7 permanent residents. The rest of the residents are all older. Mostly pensioners, over 70 years old.

The advantages of Ano Chora are tranquility and its clean air. You don’t find this air anywhere else. When you sleep at night with this air, the next day it’s like you’ve slept for 10 days in a row.

If you want to be in harmony with nature, Ano Chora is the right destination. The visitors, mainly, are Greeks and come from all over the country all year round. We do not have visitors from abroad. The visitor from abroad will go to Nafpaktos, because there he has the sea.”

The touristic rise of the village and the experiences that the visitor can have

“Walking is a must in the area. What also stands out in the village is the large network of marked trails – for hiking and mountain biking. Every August, for years, there are cycling races held in the village as well as running. Thus, the village becomes a pole of attraction for its visitors. In terms of tourism, I see that the village is constantly on the rise. Especially now that younger people have taken the reins of the Cultural Association. I am currently in the position of Vice President. We are trying in the association to create events to revive the customs of the region and people show special interest in them.

We have various festivals: the festival of Tsigarithra (February), the festival of Kastanos (October) and Tsipouros, the festival of Syglinos (February). Also, at Christmas we try to hold events. For example, Santa Claus comes to the village on a horse. In order to attract the children and say that they want to go back to that village where we saw Santa Claus coming on the horse, we try to do such actions”.

I have understood that the people who visit the village are happy, because the level of benefits has gone up. For a while, too many come. Those who live in Nafpaktos or Patras, come more often. Athenians, due to expenses, come less frequently.

Although Ano Chora is primarily a winter destination, in the summer months the season is full. People prefer it more in the summer, because it has a lower temperature than the city.