Mag offers cutting -edge and careful kitchen experience at Bom Retiro

The Mag is one of those addresses to put on the list of places to go soon, before it starts to win awards and accumulate waiting at the door. On the day of the visit, a Saturday lunch, the movement was quiet and who answered the tables was the chef himself – who is increasingly rare in the city and was a great surprise.

When this happens, it is as if a bridge were built between the hall and the pans. It sounds silly, but comes a sense of welcome, of care. Which extended throughout the experience there, with the dishes being mounted in the open kitchen under the attentive and discreet look of those who created the recipes.

In addition to my own table, Pedro Pineda ran over the same concern.

The Mag occupies a large shed in Bom Retiro, which yields that pleasure of being out of the west -known buzz. A long red counter separates the kitchen from the small tables arranged in line. Anyone who sits facing the cook’s assertive movements, which makes the house a nice place to go alone without feeling lonely.

We start with raw meat (R $ 65). It may seem like a conventional Steak Tartare, with a soft -chopped cobble and Andean corn to make a grace. But no. The dish receives mayonnaise from the house, Gochujang vinaigrette (a spicy Korean condiment), purple onion, green apple and oyster and honey sauce. The result is light and fresh. We eat as entry, but you can also ask for a larger version, such as dish (R $ 91).

Following, shrimp rice (R $ 92). The cooked rice catet in the tomato sauce of the house and fish broth takes sophret of peppers, onions and bacon, beautiful prawns, pimple, coriander and parsley. Of those dishes to eat slowly, enjoying the complexity of aromas and flavors that make salivary with each bite. The defect is to come little.

The breaded pork, rice-rice, soft egg and pork and chicken sauce (R $ 89) comes better served. The “soft egg” is an incredibly soft omelet. It is about her that rests the breaded pantry steak. The crispy and dry crust holds a tasty and tasty meat.

For dessert, there are two options: Tahine pudding with beaten cream (R $ 27) and chocolate mousse (R $ 32). The first is a must see. To taste unhurriedly, trying to record in memory the velvety texture and the flavor of the Puxuri, the Amazon seed that refers to the nutmeg, but less spicy and more almond.
The mousse is for those who like strong and concentrated flavors. With 70%chocolate, it also carries coffee liqueur, sichuan pepper, olive oil and salt flower.

In the end, it is difficult to reduce Mag’s kitchen to a type of cooking. The chef, who studied to be a cook in Italy and has tickets for houses such as Beverino and Mila, mixes Brazilian, Bolivian, Korean, Spanish and Jewish influences.

It is certain that the name of the restaurant came from the song “Magnolia”, by Jorge Ben Jor. The letter begins with the question we are also asked between one plate and another there: “What do I want more?”. You will need to go back to check it out.