Delicacy and intensity go together in the delicious dishes of the shard

If it were to define dinner in the shard in a word, it would be lightness. Not that the dishes are summarized. They are also intense in flavor. But they can unite power and delicacy. Along with a focused and agile service, everything flows well in the open house this year in Pinheiros.

We arrived at 9:30 pm and waited. Fifteen minutes later, we were accommodated at the bar, which has a small bench for up to three people. It was not long to call us to the table. But it was so nice to see the movement of the bartenders and the kitchen staff that we decided to stay there.

As it is a bar-restoration, I started with a Fitzgerald (R $ 44). I am adept at classic drinks, but bolder profiles can venture into copyright cocktails. Case of the MIL-FOLLES (R $ 38), which carries vodka infusion in nuts and ricotta and butter.

Intrigued by the description of this drink on the menu, days later I sent a message to the place asking about the technique. It was the chef himself, Victor Senna, who answered, saying that it is “Fat Wash”, an infusion that uses fats to extract flavors, aromas and textures.

Back at dinner, we divided the tuna tartlet (R $ 56), which seemed risky at first. At the time of the request, the image of those terrible boats with mayonnaise that the buffets usually serve. Reality could not be more different. Four elegant baskets of thin and crispy pasta, with very fresh pieces of tuna arranged on sour cream. A subtle and fresh entrance.

Main, the cheese mezzaluna (R $ 72) is a fresh pasta stuffed with trio ricotta, tuha cheese and fior di latte. Half-talls are arranged on a vegetable demi-glace. Toasted nuts make a welcome counterpoint with the softness of the plate. And the spinach on the ember (could come more) finish, giving more texture, color and grace.

Another tasting recipe was sacotini (R $ 74). Fresh pasta bags stuffed with lamb neck. The stuffing could be a little tastier and had a slightly phased texture. But that was resolved with a beautiful dive into the great Demi-Glace that makes up the dish.

In addition to the stuffed pasta, they draw attention on the menu the bovine cooked at low temperature and finished in the brains served with fried polenta (R $ 65), and the prime rib pork breaded, which goes with cabbage salad and green apple (also R $ 65).

Dessert, chiffon to Limoncello (R $ 39). As we were already satisfied, we had the impression that maybe a cake covered with Zabaione cream, pistachio and Limoncello syrup was too heavy to end the meal. But everything went well. It was light like a cloud.

As with other addresses of the city, it is necessary to align the opening hours informed with the reality of the establishment. Caco’s profile on Instagram says that on Saturday night, the place is open from 19h to 23h. On Saturday of the visit, the kitchen closed at 10:30 pm, and a couple who arrived at 10:26 pm could no longer enter. If a restaurant says it serves until 11pm, it should be possible to arrive for dinner at this time.