Opinion – Ora Pois: At 173 years old, a tile factory in Portugal uses art to reinvent itself

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Azulejos are one of the most striking symbols of Portuguese architecture. They gave rise to a thriving industry that peaked in the second half of the 19th century, boosted by large exports to Brazil, where comics also achieved enormous popularity.

The drop in demand meant that most of the large Portuguese factories did not survive the passage of time. Founded in 1849, Viúva Lamego is one of the few exceptions.

In operation for 173 years, the factory knew how to reinvent itself, betting on innovations in material, design and, mainly, many partnerships with artists, which began in the 1930s and continue until today.

The company created small exclusive areas inside the factory, then called cocoons, where artists could set up a kind of studio to experiment with tiles, paints and materials.

Over the years, the concept has been expanded and, currently, there are resident artists, with their own permanent spaces, as well as collaborations for specific projects.

“This allows for a virtuous circle. On the one hand, they learn from us, because there are many things they would not be able to do without our guidance. On the other hand, we also challenge ourselves to be able to execute the projects they envision”, explains Catarina Moraes Cardoso , the company’s marketing director.

Over the years, dozens of artists, both Portuguese and foreign, have collaborated with the brand. There are from Portuguese, such as Alves de Sá, Jorge Barradas, Querubim Lapa and Maria Keil, to international names, such as Chinese Ai Weiwei, French Henriette Arcelin and Brazilian Adriana Varejão.

At the “Rapture” exhibition in 2021, the biggest of his career, Weiwei presented the work “Odyssey” (odyssey): a panel with 1,800 hand-painted tiles by artisans from Viúva Lamego.

The brand also helped to build one of the most important brands in the Lisbon metro: the irreverent decoration with works of contemporary art in tiles.

Although in Brazil the concept of Portuguese tile panels often refers only to the decoration of churches and train stations, with historical motifs portrayed in blue and yellow paint, in reality, tile art remains quite vibrant.

Some of today’s most celebrated and inventive Portuguese artists, such as Vhils and Joana Vasconcelos, also frequently use tiles.

Collaboration with the artists helps to update the century-old factory, as well as boost sales, helping to ensure the sustainability of the business.

In addition to the works of art – which adorn everything from public spaces to international exhibitions, the factory also collaborated with architects, including Álvaro Siza Vieira, Souto de Moura and Rem Koolhaas, all Pritzker Prize winners.

Although the factory was transferred to the Sintra region, the original Viúva Lamego building is one of the attractions in Intendente, in the center of Lisbon. The façade, entirely decorated with figurative tiles, is one of the symbols of tile in the naive 19th century style.

Initially named António Costa Lamego’s pottery workshop, the company adopted the name Viúva Lamego in reference to the businessman’s widow, who took over the factory after the founder’s death in 1876.

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