Some women embrace their naturally gray hair — think Miranda in the “Sex and the City” reboot, who instead of her signature red hair now sports a sleek gray bob cut. But this casual attitude probably doesn’t extend to other changes women see in their hair as they age.
Most people already predict that their hair will turn gray. But the fact is that hair goes through countless changes as we age, losing density, becoming more unruly, brittle and growing more slowly.
“Thick, shiny hair is a sign of youth,” explained Dr. Erika Schwartz, who practices integrative medicine and founded the Evolved Science functional longevity clinic in Manhattan, United States. The clinic offers a range of treatments to treat hair that is thinning and losing its shine. “As is the case with everything when we get older, our hair also suffers the consequences.”
Many doctors have been reporting an increase in hair loss among patients who have had Covid-19 or are dealing with the stress of life under the pandemic (who isn’t?), but hair loss and hair texture changes linked to aging require a different approach to be treated effectively.
Aside from the option of having hair transplants, “you can’t start a treatment and then stop,” said facial plastic surgeon and hair restoration specialist Dr. Gary Linkov of Manhattan. “It takes consistency if you want to keep the results.”
Below are answers to some of the most pressing questions about what’s going on with your hair and what treatments and products might actually be worth trying.
What exactly happens to hair as we age?
For starters, there is a loss of melanin, which is why hair turns gray or white, said dermatologist Marnie Nussbaum of Manhattan and The Hamptons. Exactly when this occurs is often determined by genetics, as is how far the hairline recedes or whether baldness occurs, which is more common among men than women. But the growth cycle slows down for virtually everyone, leading to a longer resting phase, the so-called telogen phase.
At the same time, follicular changes cause each individual hair to emerge from the scalp with a smaller diameter, in a process often described as “miniaturization”. The collective result is “more diffused and thinner hair,” Nussbaum said.
But that is not all. Hormonal changes — specifically in women, the drop in estrogen and progesterone levels — also reduce the production of sebum, the natural emollient that coats hair and makes it look shiny, Schwartz said. And, because it is not protected and hydrated, the hair is more prone to breakage and to be damaged by treatments based on heat and dye, for example to disguise those gray strands.
I’m 50 and my hair doesn’t grow past my shoulders. What is the problem?
Manhattan dermatologist Dendy Engelman explained, “I tell my patients it’s not their imagination: as we get older, hair actually spends less time in the growth phase.” Less time growing and more time resting means that “hair tends to fall out before reaching the desired length”.
Launched by Procter & Gamble in 2020, the KeepItAnchored hair care line specifically aims to help the scalp “hold” hair longer by fighting the effects of oxidative stress with antioxidants and zinc.
“Think of your scalp as parched earth. When it’s dehydrated, the hair is less rooted,” said Jeni Thomas, principal scientist at Procter & Gamble and founder of KeepItAnchored. “It is not possible to control our age or our DNA, but we can control the oxidative stress of the scalp, one of the components of hair loss.”
Do shampoos, supplements and serums really work?
They may work, but choose wisely. Many specialist shampoos and serums, such as Curlsmith’s Scalp Stimulating Booster, a British line of hair care products, work by improving blood flow to the follicles. Curlsmith’s serum includes ginger and guarana, which have been shown to benefit circulation, said London-based trichologist Afoge Atoyebi, who advises the company.
Linkov noted that the only topical solution supported by significant medical research is minoxidil, which dilates blood vessels and can extend the hair growth phase. Some doctors have also been prescribing topical finasteride, traditionally taken in pill form. It prevents testosterone from converting into DHT, an androgen (male sex hormone) that helps thin men and women’s hair.
Finasteride should not be taken by women who are pregnant or may become pregnant. For patients who are not going to get pregnant, Schwartz prescribes a serum composed of finasteride, minoxidil and biotin.
Supplements can also be helpful. Nutrafol, for example, makes a supplement that uses maca, Serenoa repens palm extract and other ingredients to combat hair loss linked to hormonal changes in perimenopause and menopause. The first phase of the supplement’s clinical trial was recently published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
“The company has been doing robust clinical trials and is known among dermatologists for its good results,” said dermatologist Marina Peredo, who practices in Manhattan and Long Island.
Engelman likes Prose, which makes supplements tailored to age, hair type, lifestyle and other factors, and the prescription drug spirinolactone, an androgen blocker that also helps fight acne.
“I describe it as the beauty pill,” Engelman said.
Translation by Clara Allain
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