For those who have already felt that they need a vacation from their vacation, such is the rush of their travel itinerary, Madeira Island is a good option to end the tour of those who have traveled through Europe.
The archipelago, a 1h30 flight from Lisbon, discovered its tourist vocation in the 18th century, establishing itself as a therapeutic destination for the nobility. The main attraction was the good local climate, which fluctuates between 17º C and 25º C throughout the year.
Well established among travelers from the old continent, Madeira now seeks to attract tourists from across the Atlantic – Americans, Canadians and Brazilians (an ambition that its most illustrious native, the footballer Cristiano Ronaldo, embraced).
The archipelago’s differential in relation to European capitals is the proposal: to slow down. Trails, dolphin and whale watching, gastronomy and wine tasting — with emphasis on the local invention, the Madeira — are among the main tours.
There are four islands: Madeira, Porto Santo, Desertas and Selvagens, but only the first two are inhabited.
The capital, Funchal, has the largest hotel zone in the archipelago. Accommodation options range from Airbnbs (rooms start at R$48 per night) to luxury resorts, such as those of the Savoy chain.
In the charming narrow streets of the city center, there are cafes, bars and restaurants. A highlight is the Fábrica de Santo Antônio, where you can find artisanal cookies and crackers, in addition to the typical honey cake, made with sugarcane molasses, nuts and spices.
Walking a little further, you arrive at Mercado dos Lavradores, where Madeira displays its great diversity of fresh fruits and vegetables for British, German and Nordic tourists, who dominate the island.
Although Brazilians don’t find much new there — it’s even necessary to pay attention to the fruit hit, which is also repeated in these parts —, the visit to the fish market is worth a lot. There you can see the ugly but tasty black swordfish, typical of the region.
Fish and seafood, by the way, dominate the cuisine, but not without competition. Madeiran espetadas – literally meat skewered on laurel branches – are an excellent choice for a change on the menu.
The laurels are part of the laurel forest, considered by UNESCO as a world natural heritage in 1999. Madeira, Canaries, Azores and Cape Verde are the only places where this vegetation has survived.
To drink, the sweet Madeira wine is unavoidable – in small and cautious sips, however, given its high alcohol content. There are also several table wines produced locally, on the vines planted on terraces (the island’s terrain is rugged), which occupy the landscape. A tasting costs 15 euros per person at Quinta do Barbusano.
The Wine Festival, one of many events on the local calendar, takes place in August, when the harvest begins. The activity may be open to tourists.
Leaving Funchal, in Câmara de Lobos (referring to the Mediterranean monk seal, one of the rarest species in the world, now found only on Desertas Island), you should try the poncha, a kind of cousin of the caipirinha, which originally takes brandy, honey and lemon.
Local fishermen were responsible for creating the drink and the xavelhas, as the colorful boats moored at the pier are called. The picturesque landscape was painted by Winston Churchill during his stay on the island in 1950, which explains the statue honoring the British prime minister there.
The landscapes, by the way, are a high point of the archipelago. Still in Câmara dos Lobos, it is possible to visit Cabo Girão, a viewpoint located 580 meters high. Its suspended glass platform allows for a complete view of the cliff.
You can also see it from below, on one of the catamarans that travel the island in search of dolphins and whales. If you have the energy, it is worth taking the tour with your bathing suit on, as the boats usually stop there for a swim.
Active and adventure tourism
So much food and drink calls for a walk along the levadas, an irrigation system implemented in the early days of the island and which still works today to drain water from the highest points in the region.
In this system, residents are entitled to divert water from the levada to their property for a certain number of hours, proportional to the size of the land. A one-hour slot every 15 days, for example, costs 16 euros a year.
The narrow channels are accompanied by paths, originally designed for their maintenance, which today also serve as trails through the laurel forest. There are around 3,000 km of routes available.
One of the most sought after is the 25 fountains, about 7 km long (no climbs, for the joy of the breathless) and a tunnel in the middle (with enough water to wet your sneakers, for the sadness of the cold ones).
For this tour, it is worth arriving early, because soon the paths will fill with tourists. According to the guides, the best month of the year for hiking is September, and the worst, January and February, due to the rains. On the way it is possible to see many birds and trout, inserted by the Portuguese in the canals as a method to check the water quality.
The more adventurous may also be interested in the “above the clouds” hike from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, which connects the three highest mountains in Madeira. The route is about 10 km long and takes six hours, accompanied by a guide (from 37 euros per person at Adventure Kingdom).
In addition to the trails, activities such as trekking, canyoning, climbing and hang gliding also take place on the island.
Although it is an island, beaches are not Madeira’s strong point. Some options are Calheta and Machico (with sand imported from Morocco), Seixal (black sand) and Formosa. On the other hand, there are many natural pools, such as those in Porto Moniz.
Anyone looking for a beach destination closer to what we know in Brazil, should visit Porto Santo. The island is accessible by plane or ferry from Madeira.
