Chimichurri, an Argentine bar in SP, attracts with its meat, but wins over with snacks

by

Daniel Buarque

Chimichurri Parrilla

  • Where av. Prof. Alfonso Bovero, 730, Perdizes

The beautiful Argentine grill at the back of the small and simple bar in Perdizes indicates something somewhat obvious due to the environment decorated with the same theme: we are in a house specializing in meats prepared on the grill in the style of the neighbors. Chimichurri has established itself as one of the best places to eat good barbecue in São Paulo.

Unlike more traditional restaurants, however, the informality that is usually more associated with bars reigns here, with small tables and uncomfortable high stools inside, or wooden tables outside. The best way to enjoy it is to get into the bar atmosphere and try the most different cuts of well-prepared barbecue without worrying about fancy restaurant etiquette.

Empanada de Sobsada, a type of cured raw sausage, and cheese, served at Chimichurri Parrilla

Empanada de Sobrasada, a type of cured raw sausage, and cheese, served at Chimichurri Parrilla – Reproduction/Instagram

The restaurant offers the most traditional cuts of Argentine asado, such as entraña, which is the tender cut of the beef diaphragm (R$ 99), strip asado, rib (R$ 139), veal steak, close to diaper ( R$ 69) and arañita, taken from the animal’s pelvis (R$ 62). The meats usually weigh between 300 and 350 grams each, and are served sliced, covered with chimichurri sauce and accompanied by vegetables also prepared over grill.

The ancho steak (R$ 105) is the flagship and most ordered dish in the house, according to the waiters. The meat arrives at the table rare, but not raw, and very tender. It is marked by the excellent charcoal seasoning, which differentiates it from Brazilian barbecues made with charcoal. In addition, the grilled vegetables draw attention because they manage to maintain texture and at the same time are roasted and have the smoke from the parrilla.

The good surprise, however, is discovering that, in addition to meticulously prepared steaks, it is in the starters and side dishes that the Argentine bar really shines.

The spree can start with the excellent empanadas (R$ 14) which are served with meat, cheese, pesto filling and an option that changes every week. Prepared fried, they have a dough so light and dry that it resembles a Brazilian market pastry. The filling is well taken care of. The meat one has pieces cut with a knife and great seasonings that give heterogeneity to each bite. The cheese and onion one also stands out.

The morcilla (R$49) is absolutely delicious. The blood sausage is balanced between salty and sweet, with a lovely spice seasoning. It is also served with a piece of bread and a grilled tomato.

And the Molleja (R$69) is the highlight, as it manages to be better than many served even in Buenos Aires. This cut of beef thymus, as it is a meat with a lot of fat, usually gives barbecue chefs a hard time, as it requires time and dedication, and it is difficult to do it well — or it can lead to unpleasant experiences.

At Chimichurri, it is served in a large portion and in thin slices, with a light toasted touch. The perfect point, according to Argentine chef and owner Tomás Peñafiel, is when it is close to burning. The homemade preparation is successful, and the molleja is lightly toasted, crispy on the outside, juicy, soft and very tasty, and is well accompanied by the herb sauce that gives the house its name and a beautiful slice of burnt Sicilian lemon, which gives freshness to the cut.

With so many good options, the ideal option is to forget the idea of ​​a traditional meal and indulge in the bar atmosphere, transforming the dishes into snacks to be shared.

To this end, starters and side dishes are offered in half portions, which allows you to try more options — although the price charged is not half of the original, but 71% of it.

As a bar, Chimichurri has good drink options, with a variety of beers and good Argentine wines (although the cheapest costs R$100). A good option might be to bring wine from home and pay the corkage fee of R$60.

The only thing the house lacks is when it comes to desserts. There are just four simple options, two of alfajor (R$18 each), a mousse (26) and an ice cream (R$29). Argentine classics such as flan, pancakes and the traditional dulce de leche are missing. But the truth is that, in a bar, sweets really don’t tend to be the center of attention.

Source: Folha

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