Z Deli Jewish restaurant reopens in Jardins with modernized dining room and new menu

The Z Deli hall was once again full of celebration. Not the award-winning burger restaurant, but the Jewish restaurant founded in 1981, which has been closed for renovations since April 2023.

Three weeks ago, the restaurant welcomed the public again with a redesigned room and menu. Last weekend, families with grandparents and children and groups of friends filled the hall, expanded to around 60 seats by incorporating the property next door, on the corner of Haddock Lobo Street and Alameda Lorena, in the Jardins region.

It was at this address that three Jewish friends — Rosa Raw, Zenaide Raw and Lonka Lucki — founded Z Deli four decades ago. They imported the concept of delicatessens (or delis, for short) from New York, a type of rotisserie that sells preserves, bread and other faster foods, something new in the capital of São Paulo.

“They really marked the time with good food served in a simple way, but with the cosmopolitan feel of New York and Europe”, says Julio Raw, Rosa’s grandson, who runs the business alongside partner Bruno Mester. “These three women presented Jewish food in a light way and took the Bom Retiro delis to the middle of Jardins. For 30 years, the restaurant was booming”, he adds.

In 2011, Julio modernized the brand by creating the Z Deli sandwich shop, now with locations in Jardins, Pinheiros and Centro. Shortly before the pandemic, the restaurant underwent renovation to replace the microwaves used there and implement a buffet — the system, however, was no longer attractive after Covid. Therefore, the partners decided to modernize the address once again. The main challenge, says Julio, was to bring the traditional brand to the “youth”.

The main change was in the environment, which gained a classy feel, with marble tables, upholstered armchairs, tiles and low lighting. Julio defines the new Z Deli as a no-frills Eastern European food bistro. So much so that the prices do not match what one would expect from a restaurant of this type in the region.

The most expensive dish on the menu is the baked fish stuffed with olives, capers and aliche, which costs R$189 for two people. Classic house recipes were maintained, and others were added. The sandwiches that made Z Deli famous are also there.

The starters include the chicken liver pâté (R$19) and the mixed dish (R$69), which combines egg and cucumber salads, babaganush, curds and olives, to be eaten with bread. In the main dishes, cholent (R$78) is a type of feijoada with meat stew, white beans, fava beans and barley.

The menu is now all-day, served without interruption from morning to night, every day of the week. From January onwards, there will also be breakfast. Next month, an outdoor area will open and will increase capacity to 90 seats.

Julio brought Benê Souza, the chef who was in charge of Virado, to lead the kitchen; and Danilo Nakamura to sign the bar’s drink menu, with a counter that extends to a window facing the street — from where the public can order drinks while waiting for a table. Last weekend, the sidewalk was packed. Therefore, the tip is to make a reservation.