Vegetables are more versatile and affordable than animal products when it comes to surprising and bringing flavors, textures and colors to the table. This is confirmed by Chef Rodrigo Rissardo, 32 years old, who, after 11 years of experience at Restaurante Maní, is preparing to open his gastronomic space.
Despite not being a vegetarian, Rissardo embraced, together with chef Rafaela Soldan —also ex-Maní, with a stint at Bela Gil’s Camélia Odódó, where he was executive chef—an ovo-lactovegetarian menu, with 100% plant-based options.
“I think our habit of eating meat for lunch and dinner is absurd. Due to the global moment we are living now, it makes no sense to open a meat-centric business.”
Rissardo is passionate about the universe of fermentation, and he revealed to the column two chef recipes that can be easily reproduced in the home kitchen: salt lemon —a lemon preserve to finish dishes— and kimchi, a Korean (and spicy!) chard.
If in the past fermentation was a technique used to preserve food, explains Rodrigo, today it is valued by chefs all over the world, especially for its potential to transform the flavor of fresh foods. “The fermentation is surprising: a cucumber pickle, for example, has nothing to do with the taste and texture of fresh cucumber.”
It was at the Mugaritz Restaurant that Rissardo realized that the possibilities of fermentation went far beyond sauerkraut and yogurt. In 2015, the chef was approved in the highly disputed internship program at the Spanish restaurant, awarded two Michelin stars and ranked among the 50 best in the world since 2006.
Also at Mugaritz, Rissardo participated in experiments with fermented foods typical of Japanese cuisine, such as natto (boiled and fermented soybeans) and koji (fermented rice).
From coconut sake to miso fermented from beans other than soy, the chef can see the entire fermentation bible (the book “The Art of Fermentation” by Sandor Ellix Katz) put into practice.
Back at Maní, in 2016, Rissardo became a sous-chef, and can implement some fermented foods in the house, such as salt lemon, green tomato pickles, fermented green pepper paste and lactofermented jabuticaba.
The fermentation of vegetables is one of the tones of the new project, Café Empório Malabar, which from the 30th of April will be operating in soft opening, with workshops, the first of which is precisely on lactic fermentation (fermentation with from the salt and without the presence of air) of vegetables and fruits.
The café’s menu promises vegan options, such as the hummus toast, tomatoes and grilled shallots, and the zucchini, avocado, red onion pickle, capers and fresh herbs. There will also be an orange cake, a chocolate tart with a surprise fermentation element and a variety of plant-based milk options for the cafes.
For Rissardo, the secret of preparing a good vegetable-based meal lies in their origin. “It is essential that the vegetables are fresh and the greater the geographical proximity of the kitchen to the garden, the better the quality.”
In this sense, the coffee will be well supplied by Coletivo Balaiar, which grows agroecological and organic food at Fazenda Malabar (in Itatiba, near Campinas), where the coffee is also located.
While the new gastronomic space doesn’t open, we can take advantage of the chef’s recipes to explore the fantastic world of vegetable fermentation in an uncomplicated way, at home.
And, for those who feel like trying out the creations of Rissardo and Soldan and are a cyclist, here’s a tip: Fazenda Malabar has bike routes, which can be explored before the break to replenish your energy at the café.
Recipes by chef Rodrigo Rissardo
lemon salt
INGREDIENTS
The recipe is usually made with Sicilians, but we have many varieties here in Brazil.
4 to 6 lemons or your choice.
2 kg coarse salt.
1 glass jar (washed).
PREPARATION
Cut the lemons in 4 lengthwise without separating them completely and fill their interior with coarse salt.
Place the lemons in the pot and press each one to extract its juice. Cover them with coarse salt.
Cover and set aside at room temperature for 4 weeks until the shell is soft.
When using, wash and dry. The interior is usually discarded using only the very thinly sliced rind to season broths, stews, all kinds of proteins and vegetables.
kimchi
Usually this recipe has something of animal origin, fish sauce, shrimp, etc. Here goes the vegetarian version
INGREDIENTS
1.3 kg of Japanese chard.
200 g of turnip.
250 g of radish.
250 g of carrots.
40 g of chives.
20 g of soy sauce.
40 g of gochugaru, Korean chili powder.
2 units of girl’s finger pepper, cut into slices.
2 minced garlic cloves.
50 g of grated ginger.
3% brine *.
1 glass jar of 3 liters (washed).
PREPARATION
Cut the chard into 4 pieces lengthwise, then into strips 2 fingers thick.
In a large bowl, weigh the chopped chard and enough water to cover it. Calculate 3% salt of the total weight. Example: 1 kg of Swiss chard + 3 liters of water = 4 kg x 3% = 120 g of salt.
Leave in the brine for 12 hours or overnight.
Drain the chard and set aside, cut the vegetables into 3cm sticks.
In a large container, mix all the ingredients and transfer to the previously cleaned fermentation pot. Press the whole mixture into the pot and, if necessary, top up with brine so that everything is submerged. Do not completely close the pot so that carbon dioxide does not accumulate.
Let it ferment for 2 to 7 days at room temperature. Store in the fridge.
*Your taste buds will be your guide as to when the fermented ones will be ready. Taste daily after the second day to decide when to store in the fridge.
Workshop Ferment There! With Rodrigo Rissardo and Rafaela Soldan
When: April 30th
duration: 4 hours
Program: welcome coffee + herb harvest + workshop + lunch with fermented tasting
Where: Fazenda Malabar (Itatiba)
Registration: [email protected] / (11) 9712-59356
I am currently a news writer for News Bulletin247 where I mostly cover sports news. I have always been interested in writing and it is something I am very passionate about. In my spare time, I enjoy reading and spending time with my family and friends.
